The fil rouge that connects the 25 looks signed by Alexis Mabille is the desire. The French designer returned to the catwalk at his favourite venue, the Salle Pleyel, where the Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 collection was presented. This time, the nude tones with plays on textures, the lace transparancies and the rains of tiny crystals or opaque and shiny sequins were there to recall the fully conscious sensuality of the female bodies. His clothes, as he himself said, trace the body like a drop of perfume or a hint of makeup.
The voluminous shirts and bows took completely new directions and they recalled what we could consider a “carnal Couture”. A piqué silk tailcoat robe flowed with buttons down the back, while collar shapes were used to create giant flaps atop a flowing striped dress or graphic shoulder details on a bodice.
Alexis Mabille’s garments are fluid and modern. In this collection, they were built around a canvas of elaborate lingerie-inspired pieces like bodysuits and bustiers in allover sequins or lace. It is enough to think of the bustier appeared in re-embroidered Lyon lace or a backless sheath dress in crystal diamond mesh had satin bows stacked down the front like vertebrae running from chin to toe.
Elaborate constructions like these or a catsuit in Chantilly lace and a top made of 1,500 individually stitched butterflies were contrasted by garments that can be worn with the same ease as a t-shirt.
The last look came in the form of a bow cape in black casimir and beige satin fully embroidered with paillettes, worn over a jumpsuit in embroidered tulle. It reminds us that wrapping a woman in a bow is on of Mabille’s signatures. There is only one question left: who will have the audacity to wear it?