{"id":23210,"date":"2023-05-19T15:44:55","date_gmt":"2023-05-19T13:44:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/luxiders.com.w01cc729.kasserver.com\/?p=23210"},"modified":"2024-03-08T13:24:39","modified_gmt":"2024-03-08T12:24:39","slug":"premiere-vision-sostenibilidad-en-moda-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxiders.com\/es\/premiere-vision-sostenibilidad-en-moda-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Todas las respuestas sobre la sostenibilidad en la moda | Premiere Vision 2023"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Convertir las adversidades en oportunidades. La \u00faltima edici\u00f3n de Premi\u00e8re Vision dibuj\u00f3 un arco iris entre las nubes. Un majestuoso Foro de Eco Innovaci\u00f3n mostr\u00f3 todas las historias que quer\u00edamos ver, a trav\u00e9s de numerosas innovaciones responsables en materiales y textiles de los principales l\u00edderes de la moda. Todav\u00eda estamos al principio del progreso, pero el futuro es esperanzador.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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Para recibir el Newsletter de Luxiders Magazine,\u00a0suscr\u00edbete aqu\u00ed<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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Cada vez resulta m\u00e1s dif\u00edcil clasificar la moda sostenible y, lo que es peor, diferenciarla de la no sostenible. La definici\u00f3n tan generalizada e inexacta de la palabra “sostenibilidad” y su uso indiscriminado como herramienta de marketing y greenwashing es incontrolable. La falta de informaci\u00f3n o la informaci\u00f3n enmascarada est\u00e1 ralentizando e incluso deteniendo el proceso de cambio que la segunda industria m\u00e1s contaminante del mundo, la industria de la moda, necesita obligatoriamente.<\/p>\n

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PREMIERE VISION ARROJA LUZ SOBRE LAS SOMBRAS<\/h2>\n

Con miles de preguntas llegamos a Premi\u00e8re Vision<\/span><\/a>, la feria de tejidos y materiales textiles l\u00edder en el mundo. La organizaci\u00f3n cuenta con los mayores expertos mundiales en materiales y tejidos. Con ellos nos reunimos durante nuestra visita. Nos aclaranlas dudas que tienen actualmente los dise\u00f1adores de textiles y, sobre todo, los dise\u00f1adores de moda, as\u00ed como los periodistas especializados en la materia.<\/p>\n

Ariane Bigot, Directora Asociada de Moda de Premi\u00e8re Vision, comprende bien nuestra angustia a la hora de valorar los tejidos, que ella nunca define como sostenibles, sino como reciclados, regenerativos, org\u00e1nicos… En lugar de utilizar un t\u00e9rmino tan general y ambiguo, siempre es clara y no generalista. Nos gusta.<\/p>\n

Nuestro encuentro de media hora se convierte en una intensa charla de hora y media en la que Bigot nos explica c\u00f3mo actuar en caso de duda, qu\u00e9 tejidos o materiales est\u00e1n revolucionando realmente la transici\u00f3n hacia una moda responsable y qu\u00e9 otros elementos debemos tener en cuenta a la hora de utilizar la palabra sostenibilidad.<\/p>\n

“Es el principio de la progresi\u00f3n” -comienza diciendo- “La evoluci\u00f3n est\u00e1 llegando lentamente. No hay nada realmente sorprendente, algo completamente nuevo. La industria de la moda busca algo completamente nuevo y revolucionario, pero los procesos necesitan tiempo para cambiar. Ahora en poli\u00e9ster reciclado tenemos alternativas de fantas\u00eda, como jacquards, guipur, encajes…, e incluso bordados de lentejuelas recicladas. Esto es nuevo, pero el poli\u00e9ster reciclado no es nuevo, est\u00e1 en evoluci\u00f3n. Otro ejemplo, al principio el poli\u00e9ster reciclado era realmente rudo, dif\u00edcil de tratar. Ahora a veces es incluso dif\u00edcil ver la diferencia entre el poli\u00e9ster reciclado y el nuevo”.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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\u00a9 Courtesy by Premiere Vision<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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The Evolo process recycles chrome-tanned waste leather and transforms this solid residue into liquid solution that can be used for retainning without additional chrome. Leather by Sciarada Industria Conciaria, from Italy.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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This material was developed with a fibre made from 33% recycled leather residues, mixed with Lyocell. By Boshin Textile, Korea.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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Muchos avances han puesto de relieve el enfoque circular de las materias primas, con la reutilizaci\u00f3n de residuos textiles, agroalimentarios y cosm\u00e9ticos. Estos pueden optimizar los recursos para reducir la presi\u00f3n sobre las tierras cultivables y diversificar las fuentes.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

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\u00a9 Courtesy by Premiere Vision<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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BIENVENIDOS A LA TRANSFORMACI\u00d3N ECO-RESPONSABLE<\/h2>\n

La transformaci\u00f3n eco-responsable de la industria se deja sentir en todas las fases de la cadena de valor. El uso de residuos para la creaci\u00f3n de nuevos materiales y tambi\u00e9n para el te\u00f1ido, y por otro lado, la trazabilidad siguen ganando impulso, desde el abastecimiento hasta la medici\u00f3n del impacto social y medioambiental. Tambi\u00e9n las etapas de tintes, estampaci\u00f3n y acabado se alinean con criterios de gesti\u00f3n medioambiental para reducir el impacto del agua, la energ\u00eda, las emisiones de gases, el uso de sustancias qu\u00edmicas y el volumen de residuos.<\/p>\n

En el espacio Smart Creation de Premi\u00e8re Vision Paris<\/a> se exhibieron las empresas m\u00e1s comprometidas, inspiradoras e incluso visionarias del sector. All\u00ed encontramos materiales ecodise\u00f1ados, org\u00e1nicos o reciclados; acabados y tratamientos sostenibles (tintes, tratamientos, estampados); procesos de dise\u00f1o y producci\u00f3n innovadores y responsables; productos y soluciones tecnol\u00f3gicas que facilitan el ecodise\u00f1o y la trazabilidad; enfoques circulares globales; y mucho m\u00e1s. Por otro lado, el foro Eco-Innovaci\u00f3n lanz\u00f3 una selecci\u00f3n puntera de la oferta creativa y responsable del sal\u00f3n para promocionar los productos, desarrollos y enfoques sostenibles de las empresas all\u00ed expositoras.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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“Para ser m\u00e1s sostenibles no basta con ofrecer un producto respetuoso con el medio ambiente y certificado, se trata de contemplar toda la empresa y sus procesos desde una perspectiva eco-consciente” – afirma Ariane Bigot, Directora Asociada de Moda de Premiere Vision. El consumo limitado de agua, la calidad de los efluentes, el control de los insumos qu\u00edmicos, el consumo consciente de energ\u00eda, la gesti\u00f3n de las emisiones atmosf\u00e9ricas y del agua, la atenci\u00f3n a la salud y seguridad de los trabajadores y el bienestar de los animales deben estar en el punto de mira.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

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Erica Industria Tessile, from Italy<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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Hoh Hoferhecht Stickereien from Austria. Sedatex from Spain.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Recycled, traceable and organic textile made from orange waste by Tearfil Textile Yarns, from Portugal.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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Waterless, Recycled, Low Chemical impact finishing and traceable textile by Shanghai Skytex, from China.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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Organic, traceable, low chemical impact finishing, waterless textile by Recyctex, from China.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Made out from hemp, by Acatel-Impetus Group, from Portugal.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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NOVEDADES EN TEJIDOS<\/h2>\n

Viscosa con certificaci\u00f3n FSC<\/strong><\/p>\n

Entre los nuevos materiales que descubrimos, destaca la viscosa con certificaci\u00f3n FSC, que ahora permite crear satenes y encajes utilizando fibras de celulosa procedentes de madera de bosques con certificaci\u00f3n FSC.<\/p>\n

De los residuos a los textiles celul\u00f3sicos<\/strong><\/p>\n

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  • Naia Renew<\/strong>, en este sentido, merece nuestra atenci\u00f3n. Se trata de una fibra celul\u00f3sica de bajo impacto, procedente en un 60% de pulpa de madera gestionada de forma sostenible y en un 40% de residuos pl\u00e1sticos reciclados certificados. Cuenta tanto con la certificaci\u00f3n FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) como con la PEFC (Pan European Forest Certification).<\/li>\n
  • Refibra<\/strong> combina un 30% de textiles reciclados antes o despu\u00e9s del consumo y un 70% de pulpa de madera procedente de bosques gestionados de forma sostenible.<\/li>\n
  • Circulose<\/strong>, obtenida exclusivamente mediante el reciclado qu\u00edmico de algod\u00f3n pre o post consumo, a partir de recortes de producci\u00f3n de ropa al final de su vida \u00fatil.<\/li>\n
  • Regino<\/strong>, residuos de lino regenerados en fibra artificial.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Pla. Polil\u00e1ctidos de origen biol\u00f3gico<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Tambi\u00e9n encontramos una diversificaci\u00f3n de los desarrollos que utilizan polilactidos de origen biol\u00f3gico fabricados a partir de residuos de ma\u00edz, remolacha o ca\u00f1a de az\u00facar, para su uso en sedas o tejidos de punto listos para llevar. Destaca en este apartado el ecoh\u00edbrido Solotex<\/strong>, una fibra muy el\u00e1stica dise\u00f1ada con una mezcla de PTT de origen biol\u00f3gico que contiene un 40% de materias primas vegetales y PET reciclado.<\/p>\n

    Membranas de origen biol\u00f3gico<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Se trata de otro gran avance. “Puede acabar con el problema de los micropl\u00e1sticos”, afirma Bigot. Composiciones virtuosas de tejidos de membrana, con una base de poli\u00e9ster reciclado o biodegradable y una membrana de poliuretano de origen biol\u00f3gico, con propiedades impermeables, transpirables o resistentes al viento.<\/p>\n

    Recubrimientos de origen biol\u00f3gico<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Reducen el impacto qu\u00edmico mediante el uso de hidr\u00f3fugos con aceite de oliva o recubrimientos de origen biol\u00f3gico.<\/p>\n

    Materiales nobles reciclados<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Tambi\u00e9n es importante la tendencia hacia el uso de materiales nobles reciclados derivados de animales: 90% al 100% de seda, lana de camello o cachemir en mezclas, utilizados para tejidos de punto. La seda schappe reciclada se fabrica a partir de los residuos acumulados durante el hilado o el tejido.<\/p>\n

    Algod\u00f3n regenerativo<\/strong><\/p>\n

    “Las t\u00e9cnicas agr\u00edcolas regenerativas son una soluci\u00f3n sorprendente” – nos comenta Bigot. Incluyen el no laboreo y la no aplicaci\u00f3n de insumos qu\u00edmicos sint\u00e9ticos, la aplicaci\u00f3n de rotaciones de cultivos y cultivos itinerantes que mejoran el estado de los nutrientes del suelo, y el pastoreo gestionado de forma sostenible. Estas pr\u00e1cticas restauran la fertilidad del suelo, mejoran la retenci\u00f3n de agua y preservan la biodiversidad. La agricultura ecol\u00f3gica impone normas de cultivo, mientras que la agricultura regenerativa se centra en los resultados, y sus pr\u00e1cticas pueden diferir.<\/p>\n

    Sint\u00e9ticos reciclados<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Con el objetivo de limpiar los oc\u00e9anos, el reto de los sint\u00e9ticos reciclados est\u00e1 transformando la industria de la moda. Tras conocer Seaqual, un poli\u00e9ster fabricado a partir de desechos marinos reciclados y botellas de PET; Econyl, una poliamida regenerada a partir de redes de pesca recicladas; y Repreve, fabricado a partir de botellas recogidas en el oc\u00e9ano, a menos de 50 km de la costa; saludamos a otros materiales:<\/p>\n

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    • NewLife<\/strong>, un filamento de poli\u00e9ster reciclado trazable, obtenido mediante el reciclado mec\u00e1nico de botellas de PET, sin adici\u00f3n de productos qu\u00edmicos. Cuenta con la certificaci\u00f3n GRS.<\/li>\n
    • Q-Nova<\/strong>, una poliamida reciclada sin aditivos qu\u00edmicos, fabricada a partir de m\u00e1s del 50% de residuos previos al consumo.<\/li>\n
    • Q-Cycle<\/strong>, una poliamida desarrollada mediante reciclado qu\u00edmico. Puede utilizar residuos que no pueden reciclarse mec\u00e1nicamente, como los que han llegado al final de su vida \u00fatil, transform\u00e1ndolos en aceite de pir\u00f3lisis para sustituir los recursos f\u00f3siles utilizados para las poliamidas convencionales.<\/li>\n
    • SeaWool<\/strong>. Poli\u00e9ster fabricado a partir de botellas de PET recicladas combinado con un fino polvo de conchas de ostra trituradas, que ofrece propiedades antibacterianas, transpirabilidad y termorregulaci\u00f3n.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      “Si reciclas algod\u00f3n, tienes que separar las fibras, las fibras se rompen y, por tanto, la calidad del algod\u00f3n posterior pierde calidad. As\u00ed que para unos vaqueros o una camiseta est\u00e1 bien. Pero para prendas de alta calidad, hay que utilizar algod\u00f3n nuevo”, es uno de los consejos que subraya Ariane Bigot, Directora Asociada de Moda de Premiere Vision.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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      “Si reciclas algod\u00f3n, tienes que separar las fibras, las fibras se rompen y, por tanto, la calidad del algod\u00f3n posterior pierde calidad. As\u00ed que para unos vaqueros o una camiseta est\u00e1 bien, pero para prendas de alta calidad, hay que mezclarlo con algod\u00f3n nuevo”, es uno de los consejos que subraya Ariane Bigot, Directora Asociada de Moda de Premiere Vision.\u00a0<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

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      Undyed cotton from post-consumer denim for new denim fabrics, jacquards or knits. By Ecosimple Sustainable Fabrics, from Brazil.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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      THE RISE OF NATURALS<\/h3>\n

      For a long time, linen, hemp, nettles and kapok have had a discreet market presence. Their inveronmental performances have enabled them to make a comeback. They now blend in with all kind of composition to create varied end products, enlivened by bright colours. All of them assure economic use of water, minimum imputs, crop rotation, carbon sink and zero waste.<\/p>\n

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      • Kapok<\/strong> is drought resistant and requires little water. It is insulating and naturally water repellent.<\/li>\n
      • Cork<\/strong>. We have seen yarns using cork residue combined with cotton to add texture to marl yarns.<\/li>\n
      • Nettle<\/strong> is a long fiber extracted from the stem of the plant. Its growth requires little water, is fast and allows up to 5 harvests per year. It absorbs dyes very well, is resistant and brings fabrics a crunchy aspect.<\/li>\n
      • Soybean<\/strong>. We have seen a protein fiber derived from soybean by-products, transformed with a non-toxic, solvent in a closed loop process.<\/li>\n
      • S-Caf\u00e9 \u00ae<\/strong> is a technology using coffee grinds blended with polymers, Cradle to Cradle and Bluesign certified.<\/li>\n
      • Orange fiber<\/strong>. Another technology based on the extraction of high-quality cellulose from the lelfovers of the citrus fruit juice industry, representing 60% of the initial weight of the processed fruit.<\/li>\n
      • Hemp<\/strong>. Cultivated in soil rotation, it cleans and strengthens the soil for the next crops. It requires little water and phytosanitary imputs. This zero waste plant is fully valorized and is an excellent carbon sink.<\/li>\n
      • Abaca<\/strong> is a banana fiber, extracted from the leaves. Its culture requires only rainwater, no pesticides or fertilizers.<\/li>\n
      • Pinayarn<\/strong> or Pinacell<\/strong> are based on the extraction of pineapple leaf fibres, an agricultural waste product, with resistant properties.<\/li>\n
      • Agraloop\u00a0<\/strong>TM is using banana, pineapple, hemp or linen residues. Using responsible production that recycles water. The only effluents are organic amendments returned to the farmers for soil regeneration. The sub-products are used to make paper, bio-composites for construction, or for bio-energy to supply the factory.<\/li>\n
      • Seacell<\/strong> TM, artificial fibre made from seaweed and wood pulp from sustainably managed forests using a process with a reduced chemical impact.<\/li>\n
      • Ecovero<\/strong> TM, a viscose fibre, sourced from sustainably-managed and FSC-certified forests, optimized processing and FSC-certified.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        NATURAL DYES EVOLVE. FROM WASTE TO FABRIC<\/h3>\n

        The Spring-Summer 2024 color range<\/strong> encourages us to discover a variety of options and solutions, balanced between dream and reality.There is an evolution in natural dyes, made out of plants (indigo, genet) or fruits (Japanese plum), or Nano Earth dye technology with minerals. They provoque color ranges from pale to saturated tones, processes without tonic mordant, used on natural plant and animal fibers (cotton and silk) and cellulosic fibers (viscose and lyocell)<\/p>\n

        The novelties come from food dyes made from food waste: matcha tea, rooibos tee, and coffee. Also from the use of\u00a0the natural colours of animal hair and plant fibres, in their range of white, greys and browns. In this case, it is very important the strict control of substances used and pigments coming from recycling, machines and technologies enabling greater\u00a0colour absorption, reduced water and energy use and the\u00a0generation of fewer effluents. As new technologies, we love:<\/p>\n

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        • COLOURIZD\u2122<\/strong> , a dyeing technology for cellulosic fibres, acting on the molecular structure of the cellulose to enable better dyeability, without bleaching the yarn before coloration, and saving 98% of water compared with traditional procedures, thus drastically reducing effluents.<\/li>\n
        • Nano Earth<\/strong> dye uses non-toxic minerals with a nanotechnology that can permeate the colouring in the heart of the fibre, for an optimal use of the pigments and a reduction in the effluents to treat. There are fewer stages in the coloration process than in the conventional techniques for obtaining reduced water and energy consumption.<\/li>\n
        • Recycrom\u00ae<\/strong> develops pigments using textile residues, worn-out clothing and production offcuts, processed into an extra-fine coloured power that can be used on cotton and plant fibres, wool, and polyamide. Easier to filter, this pigment colouring requires minimal wastewater treatment.<\/li>\n
        • New plant-based dying processes, using fruits, flowers, plants or agri-food vegetable residues to dye, without the use of toxic mordants, in a wide range of colours and stand the test of time and use.<\/li>\n
        • The Colorifix\u00ae<\/strong> technology is based on microbiology and on replicating DNA as it is found in nature in order to produce pigments. The fermentation of agricultural by-products can be used to create colorants thanks to the action of micro- organisms whose DNA contains enzymatic colour catalysts.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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          Made from Nettle, long fiber extracted from the stem of the plant. By Migra Since 1988, from Italy.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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          + Words:\u00a0<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

          Belvis Soler<\/strong><\/em>
          \nLuxiders Magazine<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n ","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":23204,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[130],"tags":[4269,4270,5159,4271],"class_list":{"0":"post-23210","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-moda-sostenible-lujo","8":"tag-an-intensity-on-natural-dying-3","9":"tag-answers-about-sustainable-textiles-3","10":"tag-premiere-vision-3-es","11":"tag-premiere-vision-2023-3"},"acf":[],"yoast_head":"Todas las respuestas sobre la sostenibilidad en la moda | Premiere Vision<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Premi\u00e8re Vision inaugur\u00f3 un majestuoso Foro de Eco-Innovaci\u00f3n que mostr\u00f3 todos los innovadores tejidos sostenibles de los principales l\u00edderes\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/luxiders.com\/es\/premiere-vision-sostenibilidad-en-moda-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Todas las respuestas sobre la sostenibilidad en la moda | Premiere Vision\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Premi\u00e8re Vision inaugur\u00f3 un majestuoso Foro de Eco-Innovaci\u00f3n que mostr\u00f3 todos los innovadores tejidos sostenibles de los principales l\u00edderes\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/luxiders.com\/es\/premiere-vision-sostenibilidad-en-moda-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sustainable Fashion - 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