{"id":57399,"date":"2025-09-13T10:03:52","date_gmt":"2025-09-13T08:03:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luxiders.com\/?p=57399"},"modified":"2025-10-01T12:26:29","modified_gmt":"2025-10-01T10:26:29","slug":"esta-el-algodon-bci-acabando-con-el-algodon-organico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxiders.com\/es\/esta-el-algodon-bci-acabando-con-el-algodon-organico\/","title":{"rendered":"Opiniones de l\u00edderes: \u00bfEst\u00e1 el algod\u00f3n BCI acabando con la agricultura de algod\u00f3n org\u00e1nico? | Johan Graffner escribe\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\u00bfEst\u00e1 el algod\u00f3n BCI acabando con la agricultura de algod\u00f3n org\u00e1nico? Johan Graffner, CEO de Dedicated Brand, comparte su opini\u00f3n sobre el esc\u00e1ndalo del programa Better Cotton Iniciative (BCI).<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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Para recibir el Newsletter de Luxiders Magazine,\u00a0suscr\u00edbete aqu\u00ed<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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\u00bfEst\u00e1 Better Cotton Iniciative\u00a0 (BCI) acabando con la agricultura de algod\u00f3n org\u00e1nico?\n<\/h2>\n

Qued\u00e9 conmocionado cuando mi amigo Sreeranga me cont\u00f3 la historia de su querido amigo, un agricultor de algod\u00f3n en Gujarat, India, que tras mucho tiempo acumulando deudas con el mayorista de semillas, fertilizantes y pesticidas, finalmente tom\u00f3 la decisi\u00f3n de suicidarse. Aparentemente, esto no es raro entre los agricultores que utilizan las semillas de las grandes marcas. Al usar estas semillas te comprometes a utilizar tambi\u00e9n los fertilizantes sint\u00e9ticos de origen f\u00f3sil de la misma marca, y muchos acaban tan endeudados que solo ven en la muerte la salida. Beben los mismos fertilizantes venenosos para acabar con todo.<\/p>\n

Cuando ves que el producto que vas a comprar est\u00e1 hecho de algod\u00f3n BCI, \u00bfcrees que es una buena elecci\u00f3n desde el punto de vista medioambiental? \u00bfDesde el punto de vista \u00e9tico? \u00bfDesde el punto de vista econ\u00f3mico? \u00bfO ves que BCI es una etiqueta sin sentido, que enga\u00f1a a los consumidores haci\u00e9ndoles creer que est\u00e1n comprando la mejor opci\u00f3n?<\/p>\n

BCI afirma que el algod\u00f3n producido bajo su paraguas utiliza menos pesticidas, ofrece a los agricultores mejores est\u00e1ndares de vida y un uso m\u00e1s seguro de los productos qu\u00edmicos. Sin embargo, ning\u00fan estudio independiente ha podido verificar estas afirmaciones.<\/p>\n

El algod\u00f3n es la fibra textil preferida por la gente y uno de los productos b\u00e1sicos m\u00e1s grandes del mundo. Su cultivo proporciona sustento a 100 millones de hogares, de los cuales el 90 % se encuentra en pa\u00edses de ingresos bajos. Adem\u00e1s, otras 350 millones de personas apoyan la producci\u00f3n y el procesamiento b\u00e1sico del algod\u00f3n trabajando en transporte, desmotado, embalaje y almacenamiento<\/a>. Una sola tonelada m\u00e9trica de algod\u00f3n proporciona empleo a cinco personas de media, a menudo en algunas de las regiones m\u00e1s empobrecidas del mundo, lo que suma alrededor de 100 millones de familias en todo el planeta<\/a>. El algod\u00f3n sostiene a un n\u00famero significativo de personas en todo el mundo, contribuyendo a su bienestar econ\u00f3mico y sus medios de vida.<\/p>\n

Monsanto, conocida por sus semillas de algod\u00f3n gen\u00e9ticamente modificadas (GE), ha tenido una participaci\u00f3n significativa en el mercado de semillas de algod\u00f3n. En algunos pa\u00edses productores de algod\u00f3n, se ha informado que la cuota de mercado de las semillas de algod\u00f3n de Monsanto es de alrededor del 80\u201390 %<\/a>. Sin embargo, es importante se\u00f1alar que estas cifras pueden variar seg\u00fan el pa\u00eds y con el tiempo. El algod\u00f3n GE de Monsanto, introducido en 1996, fue dise\u00f1ado para protegerse de plagas como el gusano del algod\u00f3n y reducir la necesidad de pesticidas qu\u00edmicos. Como el algod\u00f3n es tratado con m\u00e1s qu\u00edmicos que cualquier otro cultivo, esto suena bien, pero el gusano del algod\u00f3n se adapt\u00f3 y, de nuevo, se necesitan m\u00e1s pesticidas. De hecho, aunque el cultivo del algod\u00f3n ocupa solo el 2,5 % de la superficie agr\u00edcola mundial, representa el 16 % del uso global de insecticidas. Un estudio de 2022<\/a> muestra que el uso de pesticidas en India y Pakist\u00e1n no se ha reducido en absoluto, a pesar de usar las semillas de Monsanto y el programa BCI.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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\u00a9 Johan Graffner, CEO at Dedicated Brand<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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\u00abUn estudio de 2022 muestra que el uso de pesticidas en India y Pakist\u00e1n no se ha reducido en absoluto, a pesar de la utilizaci\u00f3n de las semillas de Monsanto y del programa BCI.\u00bb<\/span><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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Better Cotton Iniciative (BCI) es un programa con m\u00faltiples partes interesadas iniciado por H&M en 2009, supuestamente se cre\u00f3 para mejorar la vida de los agricultores y minimizar el impacto ambiental del cultivo qu\u00edmico de algod\u00f3n. Todos estos agricultores tienen que usar semillas de algod\u00f3n de Monsanto para poder venderlo como algod\u00f3n BCI.<\/p>\n

R\u00e1pidamente, muchas grandes corporaciones como IKEA, Lindex, Kappahl, Gina Tricot, Best Seller, Inditex y Levi\u2019s se sumaron al programa y hoy el algod\u00f3n BCI representa m\u00e1s del 22% de la producci\u00f3n mundial de algod\u00f3n. Las normas establecidas por BCI son muy indulgentes con las marcas y los agricultores: las marcas pueden usar la etiqueta BCI siempre que solo el 5% de su algod\u00f3n provenga de agricultores BCI, siempre y cuando se comprometan a aumentar ese porcentaje al 50% en 5 a\u00f1os. El algod\u00f3n BCI no tiene trazabilidad alguna, principalmente debido al uso de un sistema de balance de masas. Esto significa, en la pr\u00e1ctica, que el algod\u00f3n utilizado por estas marcas en sus productos, que etiquetan alegremente como sostenibles, podr\u00eda haberse cultivado de forma convencional.<\/p>\n

No hay exigencias ni mecanismos de rendici\u00f3n de cuentas para que los agricultores de algod\u00f3n BCI reduzcan el uso de qu\u00edmicos; m\u00e1s bien, solo se les pide que intenten usar menos qu\u00edmicos y agua de forma m\u00e1s eficiente. A menudo los agricultores fumigan sus cultivos con insecticidas hasta 7 veces antes de la cosecha, lo que lleva al alarmante dato de 1 kg de productos qu\u00edmicos utilizados para producir 1 kg de algod\u00f3n.<\/p>\n

Gran parte del problema es que, una vez que se empieza con las pr\u00e1cticas agr\u00edcolas qu\u00edmicas, todos los microorganismos del suelo mueren, por lo que hay que aplicar cada vez m\u00e1s fertilizantes sint\u00e9ticos de origen f\u00f3sil. Los agricultores no pueden simplemente usar menos qu\u00edmicos de repente, porque cultivan sobre un suelo muerto y necesitan comprar y aplicar fertilizantes para obtener cualquier cosecha.<\/p>\n

Los qu\u00edmicos son caros y miles de agricultores se endeudan, lo que conduce a numerosos suicidios cada d\u00eda. Sin mencionar a los miles de agricultores de algod\u00f3n que son diagnosticados con c\u00e1ncer debido a la exposici\u00f3n a insecticidas nocivos, en parte porque cultivan sus alimentos junto a los campos de algod\u00f3n.<\/p>\n

Tal como se indica en los \u00faltimos Principios BCI v3.0: \u201cLos fertilizantes pueden afectar la salud del suelo, el agua y la biodiversidad (por ejemplo, a trav\u00e9s de la escorrent\u00eda y la filtraci\u00f3n en el perfil del suelo) y son una fuente clave de emisiones de GEI. Tambi\u00e9n son caros y pueden tener efectos negativos en la salud humana\u201d. Pero en lugar de prohibirlos y ofrecer m\u00e9todos alternativos, trasladan la responsabilidad a los agricultores: \u201cla toma de decisiones y la implementaci\u00f3n de la aplicaci\u00f3n de fertilizantes deben estar bien informadas\u201d<\/a>.<\/p>\n

El algod\u00f3n org\u00e1nico, por otro lado, no utiliza qu\u00edmicos y tiene aproximadamente la mitad de la huella de carbono en comparaci\u00f3n con el algod\u00f3n BCI y el algod\u00f3n convencional. GOTS, o Global Organic Textile Standard, es el principal est\u00e1ndar de procesamiento textil para fibras org\u00e1nicas, incluido el algod\u00f3n. Abarca tanto criterios ecol\u00f3gicos como sociales, respaldados por una certificaci\u00f3n independiente de toda la cadena de suministro textil. El algod\u00f3n se cultiva sin pesticidas t\u00f3xicos ni fertilizantes sint\u00e9ticos. Se cultiva de una manera que apoya ecosistemas saludables y enriquece el suelo. Esto tiene un coste y las marcas tienen que pagar una prima adicional para financiar la transici\u00f3n de la agricultura convencional a la org\u00e1nica, que dura al menos 3 a\u00f1os.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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\u00a9 Courtesy by Johan Graffner, CEO at Dedicated Brand<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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For GOTS cotton, the key to success lies in maintaining the integrity of their certification and educating consumers about the true meaning of sustainability in textiles. This educating part is almost impossible, when at the same time; the world\u2019s biggest fashion brands talk about the supposed benefits of BCI. The fact that the name \u201cBetter Cotton\u201d sounds very environmental and responsible certainly does not help either. As a result the general public tends to become confused and uninterested in the certifications altogether.<\/p>\n

Here comes the biggest problem with the BCI program; BCI is a label which allows all pesticides except the ones that are on blacklists and thereby cause massive harm to the biodiversity, while GOTS doesn\u00b4t allow any pesticides at all. Since many of the brands use BCI, because it\u2019s cheaper and sounds responsible, BCI effectively outcompetes the real organic cotton. This has gone on to the extent that GOTS cotton has halved it\u2019s share from 2% to less than 1% of global cotton in the past 10 years.\u2028The brands themselves state varying reasons of their use of BCI; H&M usually say that there isn\u2019t enough organic cotton available. This is not true, as the actual demand for GOTS cotton is so low that about half of the harvested cotton is sold as conventional cotton without any premium. Brands can also opt for the \u201cIn conversion GOTS cotton\u201d and thereby support farmers in the process of switching to organic farming practices and getting GOTS certified. When asked about the use of BCI cotton in the formidable podcast \u201cThe Wardrobe Crisis\u201d, the Levi\u00b4s manager Michael Kobori came up with the very questionable answer that organic cotton can be polluted by nearby non-organic cotton fields and thereby be difficult to guarantee. So BCI is easier to control (no doubt since there are hardly any standards to live up to).<\/p>\n

A study published in the science magazine Ecological Economics in 2022 show that BCI farmers have experienced very slight health improvements, which is still positive. However, there is no evidence that workers on farms in the BCI program have higher wages or reduced working hours compared to non-BCI farmers.\u2028In terms of the carbon footprint of BCI cotton, some independent studies show a slight improvement from conventional cotton and others state that there\u2019s no improvement at all.<\/a><\/p>\n

BCI are surprisingly weak on human rights too; from the first reports of forced labor in the Chinese Xinjiang cotton industry in 2016, BCI did not act on the matter until 2020. The Uighurs people in Xinjiang have long been detained and forced to work under inhumane conditions. With the end-product being marketed as \u2018sustainable\u2019 cotton. By now, up to\u00a0two million people\u00a0have been forced into detention and \u2018re-education\u2019 camps. In prison-like facilities, the Uighurs are chained to walls for weeks, denied access to sanitation facilities and medicine, and tortured with electric shocks and lashes.<\/p>\n

The detainees who survive are transferred for \u2018re-education\u2019. Having completed the two year \u201cre-education program\u201d,\u00a0they are taken to factories where they are forced to produce goods, under the name of several internationally known western brands.\u00a0Still under constant surveillance.\u00a0According to the Fair Labor Association, some people might get paid, while others might not. At the same time, it says that some may be able to come and go while others may not. In any of these cases, since the people are not working under their own free will, it is forced labour.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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\u00a9\u00a0Courtesy by Johan Graffner, CEO at Dedicated Brand.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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It’s clear that, in order for BCI to have real relevance in terms of reducing cotton farming\u2019s enormous carbon footprint and massive negative impact on biodiversity it needs to adopt real organic farming methods. At the moment it\u2019s not even relevant to compare GOTS cotton and BCI cotton, since GOTS Cotton has about half the carbon footprint of BCI cotton and does not contribute to either cancer deaths or loss of biodiversity.<\/p>\n

In later years, some of the progressive real purpose driven responsible brands are starting to use the new \u201cbest in class\u201d Regenerative Organic Certified\u00ae (ROCTM) cotton, which is GOTS cotton that is regeneratively grown. By using a mix of crops alongside the cotton plants, farmers are able to draw more carbon into the soil. This effectively makes the cotton carbon neutral whilst providing much improved conditions for the local biodiversity as it doesn\u2019t involve mono-crop farming. During some of my many trips to India I have studied the ROC production cycle from cotton seed to readymade garment. \u2028It’s really fascinating to see the system in action and it involves quite intricate practices for natural fertilizers and chemical free insect traps.\u2028ROC is a certification initiated by the outdoor brand Patagonia and it requires GOTS certification for the rest of the supply chain. The most environmental, low carbon impact and ethical cotton available is ROCTM and Fairtrade certified cotton, whilst BCI is more like conventional chemically grown cotton with miniscule benefits, but a big drawback: It misleads consumers into thinking that they are making a responsible choice.<\/p>\n

Is BCI Cotton killing organic cotton? Yes, to a large extent it is.<\/p>\n

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Words:
\n<\/strong><\/em>Johan Graffner
\n<\/strong><\/em>CEO, Dedicated<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

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Hightlight Image:<\/i>
\n<\/i>\u00a9 Seven Yvmgtuc via Unsplash<\/i><\/strong><\/p>\n

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