{"id":59302,"date":"2025-12-02T11:50:45","date_gmt":"2025-12-02T10:50:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luxiders.com\/?p=59302"},"modified":"2025-12-02T12:40:31","modified_gmt":"2025-12-02T11:40:31","slug":"iris-van-herpen-en-roterdam-una-retrospectiva-que-reimagina-el-cuerpo-y-el-futuro","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxiders.com\/es\/iris-van-herpen-en-roterdam-una-retrospectiva-que-reimagina-el-cuerpo-y-el-futuro\/","title":{"rendered":"Iris Van Herpen en R\u00f3terdam: una retrospectiva que reimagina el cuerpo y el futuro"},"content":{"rendered":"
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El 27 de septiembre, Kunsthal Rotterdam abri\u00f3 las puertas de su mayor espacio expositivo, HALL 2, a una de las dise\u00f1adoras m\u00e1s visionarias del siglo XXI: Iris Van Herpen. Con “Sculpting the Senses”, la instituci\u00f3n neerlandesa presenta una versi\u00f3n ampliada y renovada de la gran retrospectiva mostrada por primera vez en el Mus\u00e9e des Arts D\u00e9coratifs de Par\u00eds en 2023\u20132024. Concebida como un viaje sensorial, la exposici\u00f3n invita a los visitantes a adentrarse en el universo de Van Herpen, donde la moda, la ciencia, las artes visuales y la tecnolog\u00eda se entrelazan hasta disolver sus l\u00edmites.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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Para recibir el Newsletter de Luxiders Magazine,\u00a0suscr\u00edbete aqu\u00ed<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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Pocas dise\u00f1adoras de su generaci\u00f3n han reinventado el lenguaje de la alta costura de manera tan radical como Van Herpen. Su pr\u00e1ctica, que oscila entre la artesan\u00eda meticulosa y la experimentaci\u00f3n cient\u00edfico-tecnol\u00f3gica, ampl\u00eda continuamente la definici\u00f3n de lo que un cuerpo puede ser y de c\u00f3mo puede habitar el espacio. En R\u00f3terdam, m\u00e1s de cien creaciones ic\u00f3nicas de sus colecciones m\u00e1s emblem\u00e1ticas se presentan junto a obras de artistas contempor\u00e1neos como Philip Beesley, Collectif M\u00e9, Kohei Nawa, Kate MccGwire, Damien Jalet y Rogan Brown, as\u00ed como objetos de dise\u00f1o de Neri Oxman<\/a>, Ren Ri y Ferruccio Laviani. Juntos, estos di\u00e1logos forman una constelaci\u00f3n est\u00e9tica y conceptual que revela el alcance completo de su pensamiento creativo.<\/p>\n

La retrospectiva se despliega en nueve secciones tem\u00e1ticas que funcionan como puertas de entrada a su imaginaci\u00f3n. Temas que van desde el agua y los or\u00edgenes de la vida hasta la sinestesia, el miedo mitol\u00f3gico y los futuros h\u00edbridos del cuerpo humano. En Kunsthal Rotterdam, la escenograf\u00eda se vuelve a\u00fan m\u00e1s inmersiva gracias a un dise\u00f1o espacial adaptado a la escala del lugar, acompa\u00f1ado por la banda sonora multisensorial de Salvador Breed, que amplifica las cualidades atmosf\u00e9ricas de la muestra. No se trata simplemente de una exposici\u00f3n de vestidos, sino de una experiencia que invita a atravesar entornos, capas de materialidad, organismos hipot\u00e9ticos y estructuras que parecen casi vivas.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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\"Iris<\/div>
Iris van Herpen. Sensory Seas collection, Haute Couture spring\/summer 2020 – Micro collection, Haute Couture spring\/summer 2012. Photo by Carla van Puttelaar. Models: Julie Hoekstra I Adama Jobe I Eyes Rodgers<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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Iris van Herpen. \u2018Hypnosis Speed\u2019 top, Capriole collection, Haute Couture fall\/winter 2011-12. Utilising selective-laser-sintering 3D printing technologies, made from polyamide Photo by S\u00f8lve Sundsb\u00f8. Model: Kyona van Santen\n<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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La naturaleza sigue siendo un eje central de la exposici\u00f3n. Van Herpen se acerca al agua, al aire, a los ecosistemas marinos y a las formaciones geol\u00f3gicas como lenguajes capaces de expandir la forma del vestido. El c\u00e9lebre top Crystallization, su primera pieza impresa en 3D y creada en colaboraci\u00f3n con el arquitecto Daniel Widrig, reaparece aqu\u00ed como recordatorio del momento en que su trabajo se desplaz\u00f3 hacia lo digital sin abandonar el gesto artesanal. En colecciones como Sensory Seas<\/em>, los pliegues transl\u00facidos evocan criaturas abisales y sistemas nerviosos; en Earth Rise<\/em> trabaja con materiales reciclados como Parley Ocean Plastic, combinando innovaci\u00f3n formal con compromiso ecol\u00f3gico.<\/p>\n

Los mundos invisibles tambi\u00e9n se vuelven visibles: redes miceliales, estructuras anat\u00f3micas, esqueletos fant\u00e1sticos y arquitecturas g\u00f3ticas reinterpretadas como cuerpos porosos. Piezas como el vestido Henosis o el Cathedral dress<\/em> revelan aquello que suele permanecer oculto bajo la piel o bajo la tierra. Van Herpen transforma estas geometr\u00edas naturales, arquitect\u00f3nicas e internas en superficies vestibles que vibran con el movimiento.<\/p>\n

La exposici\u00f3n dedica tambi\u00e9n una secci\u00f3n destacada a la mitolog\u00eda, trazando referencias desde Ovidio hasta la iconograf\u00eda japonesa y explorando el miedo y la hibridaci\u00f3n, hilos que conectan con la influencia temprana de El Bosco en la imaginaci\u00f3n de la dise\u00f1adora. Lo sobrenatural se convierte en un terreno f\u00e9rtil para cuestionar el l\u00edmite entre lo humano y lo no humano, lo org\u00e1nico y lo artificial.<\/p>\n

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Nature remains a central axis of the exhibition. Van Herpen approaches water, air, marine ecosystems, and geological formations as languages capable of expanding the shape of the garment.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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\"Iris<\/div>
Iris van Herpen. Skeleton dress, Capriole collection, Haute Couture fall\/winter 2011-12. Utilizing SLS technology and 3D-printing platform, in collaboration with Isa\u00efe Bloch and Materialise. Photo by Luigi & Iango Model: Karen Elson<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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Iris van Herpen. Hydrozoa dress, Sensory Seas collection, Haute Couture spring\/summer 2020. Cellular deep-sea aquarelles, oil painted by Shelee Carruthers, with 3D layered transparent lasercut PetG leaves. Photo by David Uzochukwu Model: Cynthia Arrebola.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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\"Iris<\/div>
Iris van Herpen. Sensory Seas dress & Nautiloid dress, Sensory Seas collection, Haute Couture spring\/summer 2020. Cellular deep-sea aquarelles printed to silk organza, oil painted by Shelee Carruthers. Photo by David Uzochukwu. Models: Cynthia Arrebola I Yue Han.<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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La exposici\u00f3n culmina con una mirada hacia el cosmos. Im\u00e1genes de nebulosas, los mundos fotogr\u00e1ficos on\u00edricos de Kim Keever y siluetas suspendidas en el espacio crean un final et\u00e9reo, casi astron\u00f3mico. Aqu\u00ed, las prendas parecen flotar, despojadas del cuerpo, transformadas en constelaciones. Es una invitaci\u00f3n a pensar la moda como un campo para reflexionar sobre la existencia, el tiempo y la percepci\u00f3n.<\/p>\n

Junto a las piezas principales, la muestra incluye un gabinete de curiosidades y una r\u00e9plica del estudio de Van Herpen en \u00c1msterdam, con cientos de muestras, experimentos de materiales y prototipos. Esta mirada \u00edntima entre bastidores revela una pr\u00e1ctica en la que la precisi\u00f3n t\u00e9cnica y la imaginaci\u00f3n especulativa coexisten en equilibrio.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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Organizada en colaboraci\u00f3n con el Mus\u00e9e des Arts D\u00e9coratifs de Par\u00eds y Maison Iris van Herpen, y adaptada especialmente para la Kunsthal, esta exposici\u00f3n es m\u00e1s que una retrospectiva, Sculpting the Senses<\/em> es un manifiesto. Van Herpen concibe la moda como una forma ampliada de conocimiento, un lugar donde convergen la f\u00edsica, la biolog\u00eda, la danza, la artesan\u00eda y la tecnolog\u00eda. En R\u00f3terdam, esta visi\u00f3n encuentra un espacio que amplifica su poder magn\u00e9tico.<\/p>\n

Sculpting the Senses<\/em> puede visitarse en Kunsthal Rotterdam del 27 de septiembre de 2025 al 1 de marzo de 2026, acompa\u00f1ada por un cat\u00e1logo en ingl\u00e9s que explora la exposici\u00f3n y la trayectoria de una dise\u00f1adora que ha convertido la experimentaci\u00f3n en una forma de vida.<\/p>\n

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Van Herpen conceives fashion as an expanded form of knowledge, a place where physics, biology, dance, craftsmanship, and technology converge.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n

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\"Iris<\/div>
Iris van Herpen. Cosmica dress, Shift Souls collection, Haute Couture spring\/summer 2019. Colored clouds by Kim Keever printed on translucent organza. Photo by Warren du Preez & Nick Thornton Jones. Model: Jazzelle<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n
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IRIS VAN HERPEN – Collections Haute-Couture<\/figcaption><\/figure> <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/section>\n \n\n
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\u00a0+ Textos:
\nBel\u00e9n Vera<\/a><\/i><\/strong><\/p>\n

Todas las im\u00e1genes:<\/i>
\n<\/i>\u00a9 Courtes\u00eda de Kunsthal Rotterdam<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

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