We learn from this fashion show that; life goes on regardless. The Italian designers together with the emerging designers ensured us that they (still) create the best luxury goods. They took us on a mesmerising journey through their collections that depict beauty, modernity, and harmony with the past. It seemed that it was a "usual" business in Milan; their creativities were bursting. For example, how Moschino took us on a surreal safari, a movie painting's world and a trompe l'oeil theatre. It was as bold as their collections.
The British designer Kim Jones’ first debut on women’s ready to wear showcased a collection inspired by the five powerful sisters in Roman history. Jones said that he wanted to celebrate women of intellect who work hard. The looks were all in neutral tones that depicted the city's colour and paid respect to Fendi's history, which dominated with these shades. Although the palette might be calmed, the impact was the opposite. The collections speak loud through its silhouette, giant tassels, fun fur, fluid silk and statement accessories.
Portuguese fashion designer Alexandra Moura presented her fall collection at Milan Fashion Week. Her fearless approach translated into a collection that was whimsical, intriguing, dynamic with a touch of romanticism. Her love of Japanese fashion can be seen through her avant-garde, bold and exaggerated shapes. Not to mention how she played with textured fabrics and contours.
Jeremy Scott knows how to have fun! He brought the joyful show to IRL by depicting the old Hollywood movie with a Moschino's playful twist. The model, look and dimension were such a perfection—we surely testified his meta brilliance. He took the world's top supermodels and showcased his one-of-a-kind and provoking collection: wiggle dresses from potato-sack fabric, an embellished giraffe dress with a headpiece to match, not to mention dresses were covered in cows and cloud print. It was indeed a show within a show.
Inspired by her love of animals, especially cats, happy memories and stories from her childhood, Vivetta Ponti channels the charm of vintage toys, antiques, and tapestries into poetic collections with a surrealist twist. For her autumn collection, Vivetta showcased striking details, earthy tone and floral accent. The collection appeared on an intarsia trapeze coat, ‘70s inspired day dress and a quilted shirt coat with matching minidress.
Echoing Kim Jones of Fendi, Ian Griffiths opted to celebrate clothes for real women—a rendition of Achille Maramotti designs when he started Max Mara 70 years back. Taking inspiration from the UK countryside with a twist of an Italian accent, the collection is authentic yet eccentric at the same time. The highlight of the selection was the oversized bomber jackets, chunky Aran knits combined with midi-skirts, super soft alpaca "thornproof" jackets and chunky socks worn with stomping boots.
Kiton’s obsession is to expand their vision and bolster dynamic, urban and modern soul. For this fall collection, Kiton’s exhibits a luxe feel through monochrome shades; beige, olive and taupe. The inspiration drew from Hollywood’s 1930s glamour, which highlighting a matching suit combined with a longbow around the neck, a silk-lined duster and all-white tuxedo, ankle-length double cashmere coats and a Safari jacket worn with matching culotte pants.
For the Valentino's fall season, Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a sharp and concise collection. He calls his creativity process during this pandemic: "radical," which convey through his direct, personal and authentic approach. “It’s an act of fashion,” he explained. “ I was looking for a space open to new possibilities, like the slashes Fontana inflicted on the canvas to find new dimensions behind it.” The daywear collection was an exquisite black and white with dazzling metallic as an accent and an occasional pop of muted gold.
Seoul based fashion house has come along the way since its establishment in 2013. The Creative Director Hyun-Min Han unveiled their latest fall collection entitled CUT OUT in Milan Fashion Week. His designs focus on abstract sewing techniques, unconventional silhouettes, gender fluid and somewhat flamboyance. MÜNN commitment to sustainability depicts through the use of eco-friendly fabrics, recycling/ upcycling products like producing bags out of tires.
Veronica Etro got her inspiration from Jimi Hendrix and a ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, which she conveys through a texture-fest, tie-dye corduroy trousers, patchwork quilted coats and of course, pattern—an iconic style of the brand itself. This fall, Veronica introduced an untypical selection that has rarely seen at Etro, including T-shirt, legging and bombers contrasted with top-to-toe leopard print. We noticed as well that Veronica reduced the pattern clash and reinstated a dialogue between solid and prints.
Cushioned Comfort: Stylish meets comfort, and that is precisely what Milan Fashion Week brings this time. The collections showed that being fashionable doesn't mean we need to compromise comfort, just take a look at Max Mara’s plush puffers and quilted coats
Statement Suit: A sleek and sharp suit is adorned this fall collection. Be it in slouchy trousers or dripping fringe, all played so well and successfully elevate the classic attire into an astonishing cut.
Silk Sensual: Silk is one of the highlighted trends for this fall selection. The simple and light material’s character portrayed a relaxed yet sensual cut. A piece of statement jewellery or biker boots will elevate its simple elegance.
A Ravishing Silver: Silver makes its way into the limelight this season. Its dazzling and futuristic impression give a splash in neutral shades and muted tones.
We could notice Milan Fashion Week AW21 sustainability credential were depicted through how the designers took inspiration for their latest collections—for example, from Max Mara fashion house, the roman's five powerful sisters—the quirky Moschino who used materials from potato-sack fabric as well as MÜNN's eco-friendly materials. Alongside, smaller designers have committed to "Made in Italy" and worked on the project called "Designer for the Planet."
*Header Image: Moschino A/W21
+ Words: Alvia Zuhadmono, Luxiders Magazine
Sustainable communication student| Sweden-based writer
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