New York Fashion Week SS22 | Contrasts, Recklessness & Sustainability



This season, New York Fashion Week has been filled with new and innovative designs and approaches to sustainability. Collections covered a wide spectrum from clean cuts, over inclusive summer wear and bold contrasts to reckless looks. Luxiders brings you the best designers, committed to a more sustainable fashion industry.

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Straight edges and clean cuts are what Chocheng’s collection is all about. 100 % natural and cruelty-free pieces of saturated, bold colours are clashing with black fabrics and accessories. Chocheng’s collection forms a bridge between the European and Asian continent. Traditional British tailoring encounters Asian tradition. The seemingly puppet-like models wear flowers in their hair and strict chignons. Their Outfits are complemented with Peter Pan collars, folding fans and conical hats that traditionally served as protection from the sun, which on the catwalk however bristle over with elegance and mystery.



Alice & Olivia’s collection can be described as a reincarnation of the femme fatale. Dresses reveal just enough skin to generate a sex appeal yet remain tasteful and sophisticated. The collection that is committed to zero waste and sustainability, by using for instance responsibly sourced wool and recycled cashmere knits, is the epitome of modern-day femininity. Their designs are sometimes classic sometimes daring. Alice & Olivia provide diverse, versatile options that will certainly please your everyday wardrobe.



Fearless, sun-kissed and contemporary is what Collina Strada’s new collection embodies. Vividly coloured dresses, skirts, and pants made out of rose sylk, deadstock fabric and recycled cotton – everything is flattering and mixed and matched. Dresses are combined with oversized pants, extravagant prints encounter flippy patterns. Everything seems to go and work. For Collina Strada fashion is a means to foster social and climate awareness and self-reflection and expression. The paradigm that fashion is for everyone is reflected in the diversity of models. Models of all shapes, origins and ages float over the catwalk, thereby conveying wholesomeness, inclusivity, joy and lust for life. What else could anyone ask for?  




What once started as a conceptual art project, as a response to mass consumerism, turned into a fashion label which creates pieces that consist entirely of recycled pieces. Each garment is unique in its own way. Their most recent collection focuses on wide, simple designs. Some of which carry prints of thought-provoking quotes, such as “The more you consume, the less you live.”. IOC's commitment to its cause is certainly admirable.



The in 2016 founded ready to wear brand Batsheva convinced with a bold reinterpretation of past looks through locally sourced and produced garments. Peter Pan cardigans are matched with Parachute pants, innocent-looking dresses with ruffles are worn with daring black lipstick, striking eyeliner and wigs, thereby changing the context of traditionally feminine clothing. Batsheva successfully challenges and reinvents past notions of femininity through their designs. 




Pattern on Pattern: Less is more is an outdated concept for many designers at the New York Fashion Week. Fantasy and creativity should not know any limits. The US label Libertine experimented on the brink of overstimulation with playful prints and graphic illuminations, while Studio 189 received attention, utilizing abstract layered patterns. 


Contrasts: were spotted in numerous collections and diverse ways. The Spring Summer season will certainly be filled with vivid and striking colour differences. Proenza Schouler presented strong, bright colours, pervaded by dark details and accessories. Vetements contrasts business wear with striking pieces and Nicole Miller created a colourful dreamworld and accentuated her designs with rather subtle contrasts.


Female empowerment: was not lacking within designer’s collections. The knitwear brand PH5 showed that knitwear is not just made for plain Janes. Their collection has proven to accentuate femininity without reinforcing stereotypical images. PH5 models are enticing but proactive and complex individuals, who cannot be put in a box. They are sometimes in the kitchen and other times cutting a dragon fruit with a power saw, which is symbolic in more than one way.


Recklessness: is a keyword when it comes to designers that target a young audience. Y Project reinterprets the 80’s. Moustaches and mullets are trendy again. Designs are oversized, thought through, yet messy to prevent by all means a try-hard look. The collection radiates youthful ignorance and coolness. These concepts could also be found in Reese Cooper’s easy-going collection, which is all about practicality. Cargo pants meet lumberjack shirts. Youngsters embrace inconspicuous colours and adopt indifference as a mode de vie



+  Words:

    Lissy Reichenbach,

    Luxiders Magazine