New York Fashion Week F/W21: Between A Futuristic Aesthetic And A Return-To-Nature

 

 

New York Fashion Week took place from February 14th to 17th, with many shows canceled or only available digitally due to the still raging pandemic. However, responsible brands were present, competing in creativity both in terms of design and presentation. Between clothes adapted to the future months that will mainly be spent in our homes, a strong presence of technology and numerous tributes to nature, this Fashion Week was a faithful portrait of the dilemmas of the year.

 
 

SUSTAINABILITY AT THE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

COLLINA STRADA

Collina Strada, dedicated to social issues and questioning the status quo through her creations, has designed a breathtaking collection for the winter season. Bold and visibly easy-to-wear clothes were embodied by a wide variety of models that turn into animals in the GIFs the brand shared on its social media accounts. A dress with voluminous petticoats becomes a butterfly, a 70's ensemble a small lizard and a tight top a sphinx cat. Nature, both plants and animals, is celebrated throughout the collection named Collina-mals.

PH5

This label renowned for its love of innovation did not disappoint this season. Balancing between homewear and a more athletic aesthetic, the new collection of PH5 is composed at first glance of classic pieces that are actually upgraded with 3D effect prints and flashy colors. It feels like a winter wardrobe revisited for science-fiction. The futuristic aspect of the collection does not stop there: the brand has collaborated with the virtual and eco-responsible influences AMA to embody some of its pieces.

ADEAM

Two very distinct vibes emerge from their FW21 collection: relaxed sportswear and comfortable workwear. Like many brands this season, ADEAM seems keen to think of designs that fit the comforts of home with many people around the world having restricted outings. A collection that exudes ease, in which we find the "East meets West" approach of ADEAM’s artistic director Hanako Maeda.

 
 
 
 

REESE COOPER

The designer imagined a collection that left no place to ambiguity with many messages committed to the protection of the environment. In particular, one can see written on one of his jackets “The call of the wild should not be HELP!”. Through a series of sophisticated outdoor pieces with a modern approach, Reese Cooper has taken on societal issues such as the COVID19 pandemic, notably by being one of the few designers of the season to display his models wearing masks.

Zero waste label Myar perfectly illustrated the need for pieces that are both comfortable and suitable for an exterior that is missing to many people due to the pandemic. Simple cuts and mixes of materials deliver a collection that is sometimes close to (very stylish) pajamas and hiking outfits. All with meticulous details like shoulder pads, suspenders and well-placed pockets that give the clothes a timeless look.


PLAN C

The wardrobe offered by the brand is marked with references to children's outfits and daring pieces for the office. XXL cuts and vivid colors form an eccentric collection photographed in the wild. The pieces with strong cuts contrast with the choice of natural landscapes, which seem to be an invitation to hope for better days when we will again be able to walk on the beach and in the forest.

 
 
 

HERON PRESTON

Heron Preston draws inspiration from on-site workwear. The US-based designer presents clothes with straight and simple lines with his collection called Between Two Worlds, which refers to its artistic direction. The collection is indeed divided between this vibe of manual work and the hype trends of the industry (puffy jackets, wide shoulders but tight waist...). A balance that makes his designs easily wearable without losing the designer's touch.

 

ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

The main aspects of this collection? Comfort and simplicity. Maria Cornejo delivers simple silhouettes tailored to time spent indoors, with relaxed cuts inviting to spend long days on the couch. Still, she adds more festive prints at the end of the collection, a sign of hope for a return to normal life by next year.

 

REBECCA MINKOFF

The artistic director is one of the now numerous people to play with the fashion week traditional calendar, by presenting a collection indeed during New York Fashion Week, but for the Spring- Summer go 2021. Betting on a see-now buy-now business model, Rebecca Minkkoff hosted her presentation in Soho via an Instagram live. She presented a collection in her usual style, mixture of boho and rocky spirit with leather shorts and jackets meeting some maxi dresses and romantic tops.

 
 

THE TRENDS OF THE SEASON

 

No sleeve for the winter: This trend inspired by vintage preppy aesthetic is apparently here for a long time. Giving a cool nerdy vibe to a casual outfit, sleeveless sweaters and tops are everywhere on Instagram and on the runway.

 

The triumph of green: More than just a sustainable state of mind, green was found in many collections in dashing shades. In some cultures, this colos is the symbol of hope : maybe the fashion industry is making some wishes for next year...

 

Playing with the layers: The Fall-Winter season is the perfect time to add up some clothing and designers went all the way : there are many sets of overlaid designs, with hoods emerging from oversized coats or crop jackets revealing a sweater or a shirt.

 
 
 
 
 

THE DIGITALIZATION OF STYLE

Almost a year after the international expansion of the COVID19 pandemic, it is interesting to see how fashion insiders are adapting and making digitization their ally to compensate for the loss of vitality caused by the lack of a public. The rise of digital influencers is confirmed by the fact that responsible fashion is also doing it with AMA. In addition to using her as a muse, the PH5 brand has also appointed her chief decision scientist of their label!

Social networks remain a major tool for the diffusion of collections, whether it is delayed or live, as for Rebecca Minkoff who has thus maintained a direct link with her audience. But the most creative use of digital media can be attributed to Collina Strada, who reminds us of our wildest features with her creations associated to animals ranging from frogs to dinosaurs. A beautifully artistic yet committed way of using modern technology to remind us of our essentiel connection to the environment.

 

 +  Words: Claire Roussel, Luxiders Magazine Contributor

Claire Roussel is a fashion writer dedicated to sustainability and social issues. She uses her passion for writing to tell the stories of the people fighting to make the fashion industry a more responsible one.