Paris Fashion Week AW21 | A Reality Check That Leaves Us Dreaming

The Fashion month has come to an end. After New York, London and Milan, Paris brought us an (almost) entirely online event. That is good news if you were not in Paris, or a press member; given that most of the houses live-streamed their shows online. There was one brand though, that delivered a live runway show: Coperni. Designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vallant found a creative way to deliver, by staging a drive-in runway that permitted the guests to be safe while enjoying the one and only runway show of the Paris Fashion Week. The cars were lined up forming a runway for the models to walk. The clothes reflected the love of the designers to bring together technology and fashion. With their accessories always standing out, paired with small dresses and big coats. 

LOEWE

“The Loewe show has been cancelled” could be read in the newspaper created by designer Jonathan Anderson, making allusion to the massive cancellation of shows due to the worldwide pandemic. In contraposition, Loewe delivered perhaps one of the most vibrant collections. Big sleeves along with the classical drapes, geometrical shapes and very much color contrast were some of the highlights of the show. Anderson also brought back the Loewe´s Arizona bag, a 70’s archival style. 

MARINE SERRE

On the first Tuesday of the Fashion Week, Marine Serre’s collection went live in a website, instead of a show (either on-or offline). Her newest collection, “Core”, is a celebration of friends, family and community. “Core” serves also as an invitation to think about the processes and materials that are used: repurposed silk scarves turned into tunic and dresses, dead stock leather graphically patched, and regenerated denim are some of the sustainable techniques used by the designer. Sustainability combined with a wide variety of models that included children, provided another reality check in an industry highly driven by stereotypes.

ISABEL MARANT & ACNE STUDIOS

Isabel Marant classic futuristic dressing never disappoints. Puffy shoulders, belted waists and western inspired elements brought along a sense of nostalgia in the show. The vinyl used in many of the garments combined both the futuristic style,  with the past. “What will happen when we come out of isolation?” Is what creative director of ACNE studios thought while creating this collection. Designed as a dreamscape, in which colors take us through a journey from spring days to heavier times: soft pastel colors, that developed into a monochromatic clarity. 

CASABLANCA

In their first full women collection, Casablanca presented a collection inspired in the city of Monaco. “Grand Prix” emulates and combines cars, races, casinos, parties and glamour. With a nostalgic air, all this elements come together into a collection full of colors and retro inspired. Ghitta Laskrouif reinventes clothes, by reusing and upcycling fabrics to create new garments. 

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto took a darker view and presented his new collection based on a dark, punk spirit. The elegance of the 19th century long and fitted dresses, with corsets; along with oversized and deconstructed jackets and coats gave the impression of sometimes unfinished looks. Nostalgia once again, took this Paris Fashion Week on a trip to the past, with dents of an uncertain future. 

TRENDS

• Vibrant colours: Almost in a way to bring light into this dark times, many designers have opted for using vibrant colours in their collections. Such as Ottolinger, Versace and Coperni. 
• Nostalgic airs: We have seen in many runways, and as a trend that has been growing in the last collections, that a look in the past is growing big. Alexis Mabille, Casablanca and Yohji Yamamoto are some of the examples. 
• Futuristic aesthetics: Other designers, such as Balenciaga or Kolor have opted too, to take a look into the future; bringing bright color and futuristics aesthetics in their collections. 

SUSTAINABILITY

From the use of organic material, or repurposed fabrics, like in the case of Marine Serre all the way to new technologies like Coperni; every time more designers are hopping in, and searching for new ways to implement sustainability in their collections. Many designers have chosen to upcycle in this edition of the Fashion Week, giving their garments a new and more purposeful meaning; and some other like Loewe have decided to bring back archival styles.