An article from Fashion United states that a pre-covid New York Fashion Week would generate 40,000 to 48,000 tons of carbon dioxide; the largest proportion of this deriving from the 10,000 people flying into the city. The statistics on the environmental damage caused by NYFW make this year’s digital event a well-deserved break for the planet and a refreshing opportunity for the industry to re-consider future shows. There were a number of sustainable brands on the digital catwalk this year and we’re going to be sharing the best trends from them and covering our favourites!
In true spirit of our current climate, of course we saw masks make an appearance in many collections. It’s an exciting accessory to see at Fashion Week because of the vital role masks play in our everyday life now – why not make it a statement and keep it stylish? Alice & Olivia, Zero & Maria, Imitation of Christ and Collina Strada were a few sustainable brands to present their take on the mask.
Another trend we may take from New York was statement shoulders. This came in the form of bohemian puff shoulders, classic shoulder pads and even square shoulder pads which appear detachable in the case of brand Alyx. They can appear as a power dress move or a sweet feminine nod back to traditional milkmaid dress.
A highlight from the Alyx Show: the studded two-piece suit - a true masterpiece. There were at least 12,000 semilunar studs on each garment, hand applied by Italian Artisans. The attention to detail from this brand is always immaculate. The fluidity of gender was also present throughout this collection, designer Matthews Williams really experimented with angular structures and silhouettes – making it difficult to differentiate gender.
Chopova Lowena brought us another hybrid collection this Fashion Week. Anglo-Bulgarian is the sartorial mash-up we never knew could be so savage and fresh. The garments definitely scream 70s punk but with necklines and ruffles inspired by traditional Bulgarian folk costume, a new dimension forms within feminine dress. The clash of tartan prints, hues of red and blue and dense Vs sheer fabrics make for a very New Gen design approach.
Tom Ford’s impeccable use of colours were a treat for the eye this NYFW. Tropical florals, jungle prints and psychedelic tie dye in fuchsia pink, striking purple and botanical green, all shared centre stage at this show. We could describe Tom Fords SS/21 line as the ultimate holiday wardrobe for the party animal within every Girl Boss. Powerful, tailored silhouettes mixed with beautifully oversized floaty kimonos – a truly deserving collaboration of garments.
This brand is ruler of matching patterns that traditionally should not match. Filled with stripes, squares, doodles and flowers, the patterns of Colville SS/21 are unique and create the perfect clash for an everyday street style. Stripes on stripes and texture on texture, it’s a new trend and we think it works.
The future of New York Fashion Week must be more sustainable. The change in structure this year to a digital show due to the coronavirus can be something the fashion industry learns from. Going forward it cannot just be the collections developing sustainability, it must be the event as a whole: compacting the location of shows to a smaller radius, using renewable and clean energy sources on set and cutting the calendar to fewer shows are just some of the changes that must be made.
+ Words: Cerys Matthews, Luxiders Magazine Editor