Paisley Print | A History Of Its Usage
Paisley print has a rich cultural history that has travelled far and evolved throughout the years. Learn all about its origins, who has worn it and where it stands in the debate of cultural appropriation.
WHAT IS PAISLEY?
The paisley print is a detailed pattern of curved, feather-like shapes based on an Indian pine-cone design. The specific shape is called ‘buto’ or ‘boteh’ which is the Persian word for flower. It is often floral, colourful and abstract, with each colourway and variation being unique. Thanks to these features, the print has played an influential role in the fashion and textile industries for decades.
HISTORY
The history of paisley and understanding the fascination behind the print, adds to its uniqueness. It is a print that is steeped in rich culture and symbolism, dating back over 2,000 years ago to the Indo-European cultures. Originating in India in the 11th century, it is believed the pattern was developed to represent life and fertility. Paisley gained popularity when it became associated with the luxurious and highly sought-after Kasmir shawls. Kashmir shawls were embellished with the paisley print. These garments were often worn by Persian royalty, garnering significant attention and admiration for the pattern.
Paisley then travelled across the globe, as Kashmir shawls began to be seen in Europe in the 16th century, being offered as gifts from Kashmiri princes to European officers. From this point on, the pattern became celebrated amongst European royalty. However, since these shawls were not affordable to the majority of people, European textile manufacturers sought to replicate the design. The Scottish town of Paisley succeeded, which is where the print gained its modern name, transforming the ‘buto’ print into Paisley.
WHO WORE PAISLEY?
Since then the print’s popularity has not faltered, with fashion icons such as The Beatles, David Bowie and Victoria Beckham using it as a fashion staple. Paisley was particularly popular during the ‘60s and ‘70s, adopted by the psychedelic art and fashion of the era. Fashion icons are determined to keep the print alive, with Oasis’ Liam Gallagher even founding his own clothing brand dedicated to keeping the print alive.
CULTURAL APPROPRIATION OR CULTURAL EXCHANGE?
Cultural appropriation occurs when one culture borrows a specific aspect of another and deliberately uses it as its own, often stripping it of its original meaning and significance. The Paisley pattern is often cited as an example of cultural appropriation. Scotland’s reproduction and commercialisation of the print led to its widespread use in Western fashion without acknowledging its rich cultural heritage. Even the name ‘Paisley’, derived from the Scottish town rather than its original name, ‘buto’ or ‘boteh’, reflects a detachment from its origins. This form of appropriation highlights broader issues of power dynamics and economic exploitation. Dominant cultures profit from the designs of marginalised ones, effectively erasing their cultural roots and meanings. However, some argue that the evolution of designs is a natural process. This view states that in our increasingly interconnected world, global exchange and transnational influences blur cultural boundaries and encourage the blending of diverse artistic traditions.
PAISLEY AND SUSTAINABLE FASHION
Sustainable brands are among those integrating paisley print into their style. Many eco-friendly designers are choosing paisley, honouring its legacy and sustainable origins rather than focusing solely on its aesthetic qualities. By sourcing ethically produced fabrics and working with artisans who maintain traditional techniques, these brands use the print whilst promoting sustainable and ethical fashion choices.
Path To Paisley is a London-based brand, that crafts one-of-a-kind sustainable pieces that often feature paisley print. The luxurious brand features in prestigious places like London’s Harrods and their collections are available to view on appointment. Another brand using Paisley as a staple of their collections is Carolina K. Carolina K is known for its authentically made hand-embroidered pieces, crafted by artisans from remote regions in Mexico, Peru and India. The brand focuses on sustainability and prioritises preserving artisanal traditions. Purchasing paisley from brands with ethical intentions and a commitment to celebrating the print’s origins ensures that you are not funding the mass production and cultural appropriation often associated with fast fashion. Instead, you support sustainable practices and the livelihoods of artisans, maintaining a connection to the rich cultural heritage that paisley represents.
+ Highlight Image: ©Soroush Taheri via Unsplash
