Magic Of Presence And Pause: Interview With Julia Allert

It was late-March when Moldovan Brands Runway introduced its Spring Summer 2025 edition right at the heart of Moldovan capital, Chišinau and the hype is still here. Happening twice every year, MBR portrays one-of-a-kind paradigm in the Eastern European Fashion scene by both unveiling the new collections of regional designers, including culturally neighboring countries of Moldova such as Ukraine and Armenia, and by presenting a narrative built on the fusion between innovation and tradition.

For a noticeable period, almost every industry professional has been keeping an eye on a recent phenomenon evolving in the world of fashion – the refunctionalizing of the stereotypes in the industry. Before the 2020s, fashion used to be followed and studied under the developments and news coming from the so-called fashion capitals like Paris, Milan, London and New York City. Yet the meteoric rise of Copenhagen Fashion Week specifically through the flamboyant street style became a game-changer; now followed by the avant-garde silhouettes of Berlin going viral among the Generation Z, and respectfully, the time-travelling designs emerging from the Eastern European fashion scene. A journey of inclusivity, therefore, can be easily observed in the influencing regions of fashion as much as it is seen through the industry practices.

Time-travelling is the key concept here, when diving deep into the roots of Moldovan fashion: Unlike the previous attempts to integrate with the hegemonic Western European and Northern American fashion codes, Moldovan designers get empowered by their truly unique heritage in garments and create significant patterns, primarily laces and knitting, into their modern review of style. This is a vital point when keeping the track of fashion rising from Eastern Europe into the realm of global fashion consumption; not only because it is an ode to the traditional and generational fashion creativity and craftsmanship, but also by including sustainable and inclusive practices in the global scene.

Julia Allert, with its opening show of MBR, naturally positions itself under the spotlight exactly in parallel with this journey of fashion: Founded in 2005, the namesake brand of the designer has been redefining the elegant intersection of tradition and modernity for the last two decades. Staying loyal to the heritage through details of fringe, lace, and ruffles; Allert brings the elements of contemporary fashion through drapes and innovative material use. Considering the unique formula rooted deeply in the brand’s identity, it is no surprise that Julia Allert became a competitor of global brands on several e-commerce platforms around the world, and still stayed responsible to sustainable practices and values. It was no other than the brand introducing vegan leather and eco-conscious materials, or inclusive size options like 4XL that celebrate different body types into the mainstream Moldovan fashion scene. Allert is talented, and undeniably successful; but her loyalty to the ethical values when running a globally-acknowledged fashion line makes it even more meaningful to all.

To unveil the creative process of Julia Allert, we had a conversation with the designer and dived deep into the brand’s latest collection Shadows of Eternity, complemented by Allert’s approach to sustainability and being a successful woman in the fashion industry.

INTERVIEW WITH DESIGNER JULIA ALLERT

Congratulations on your last collection! Shadows of Eternity, freshly unveiled as the opening show of the Moldovan Brands Runway. Could you tell us what were the main inspirations and muses creating these pieces?

‘Shadows of Eternity’ is a reflection on time — how silhouettes, shadows, and emotions leave traces within us. The inspiration came from historical architecture, theatrical scenography, sculpture, and silence itself — those rare moments when form begins to speak without words. This collection is about presence and pause, about letting the garment create its own gravity on the body.

While every collection of Julia Allert portrays authenticity by themself, still, there are established brand codes that one can acknowledge throughout the journey of your brand –for instance, your signature corsets. To you, who is the woman that wears Jullia Alert? What kind of a woman do you manifest of, during your design process?

The Julia Allert woman is intelligent, intentional, and emotionally powerful. She doesn’t dress to impress — she dresses to express. I imagine a woman who chooses meaning over noise, who understands the value of structure, stillness, and subtle drama. She’s independent, reflective, and always in movement — not necessarily loud, but impossible to ignore.

It is easily observed that Julia Allert maintains a strong brand identity, and catches noticeable attention both in and outside Moldova. In addition, the brand’s success is quite prominent. We’d like to ask about the journey you took here; what is the story behind the brand’s foundation, and the milestones you processed walking towards global success?

I started the brand in a country without a fashion infrastructure. Everything had to be built from the ground up — production, team, trust. One of the turning points was realizing that my pieces were starting to ‘speak’ abroad — across language and culture, through form and idea. Today, Julia Allert is sold in different countries, but what matters most to me is staying true to my vision and maintaining depth, even as we grow.

During Moldovan Brands Runway SS25, not only have we learned Julia Allert is an extremely successful brand in terms of e-commerce strategies; but it also is a pioneer in sustainable and body-inclusive fashion practices in Moldova. Could you tell us about how Julia Allert perceives sustainability and how does she apply it to her brand?

For me, sustainability is not a trend — it’s a responsibility. We use deadstock fabrics, off-cut pieces from our own production, and focus on timeless silhouettes that resist seasonal turnover. Our production is local and ethical, with fair treatment and full respect for every person involved. We encourage conscious buying and design garments meant to be worn for years, not months. Emotional sustainability is just as important — clothes with meaning are rarely thrown away.

As a designer from Eastern Europe, what changes do you think that we need in the world of fashion, especially for designers from the emerging fashion cities like Chišinau?

We need better access to visibility — platforms that allow new voices to be heard, without needing to relocate to fashion capitals. There’s so much creativity in cities like Chisinau, but the lack of infrastructure and international attention can be discouraging. I believe in a future where innovation is valued over geography, and where authenticity from the periphery reshapes the center.

ABOUT INEQUALITY AND STEREOTYPES

In a world that gender inequality is unfortunately still relevant; how would you define being a successful woman in such a competitive industry like fashion? What are your experiences as a woman designer; the obstacles you do face, the shifts in the industry you expect, and recommendations to women who want to be successful in fashion?

Being a successful woman in fashion means building without compromising your values. It means staying sensitive in a competitive world and protecting your inner voice. I’ve faced pressure to fit into predefined molds — to be more commercial, more convenient. But true success, to me, is when you’re able to lead without losing yourself.

Another thing we have realized during the latest Julia Allert show was that the brand is not only a perfect review of a contemporary, fashionable woman stereotype; but it also is a perfect narrative of your personal style. Can you share how your style influences the design process, and of course, how would you summarize your personal style in a few words?

My personal style is quiet, structured, and emotionally layered. I love the contrast between softness and strength, between movement and stillness. That’s what guides my hand when I design. I never follow trends — I follow feelings. Julia Allert is an extension of that inner world.

As mentioned, it is known that you are not only a stimulating designer, but also a very successful businesswoman. In the days of success usually equating to non-ethical practices; how do you stay ethical and successful at the same time, and what would you recommend to those who want to follow your path?

You stay ethical by making every decision count. By choosing quality over quantity. People over speed. Success built slowly and mindfully is much more powerful than quick wins. I focus on long-term relationships — with clients, with my team, with materials. That is the success I believe in.

We know it is quite an early question now to ask –but still curious about what will be the next destination for Julia Allert. Would you like to share some hints about the upcoming collection, if already started, and business plans with the Luxiders readers?

We’ve started developing the next collection — it explores intimacy, gesture, and emotional tactility. In terms of business, we’re focusing on new digital tools and curated offline moments that bring the audience closer to the meaning behind the pieces. We’re not just expanding — we’re deepening.

Lastly, we would like to know if there is a message or story that you carry and seek to deliver through the garments of Julia Allert. What is that message you believe in, and the story you want to share with those who come across the beautiful pieces of Julia Allert?

The message is simple: fashion can hold meaning. Clothing can speak. Every line, every silhouette in Julia Allert carries intention. It’s not just about what you wear — it’s about what it says about how you see the world. This brand is for those who want to feel something deeper through form.

+ Words:
Tolga Ra

+ Highlight Image:
© Nikita Grimovich