Growing Inclusivity In The Modelling Industry

The modelling industry is known for its harsh criteria and unrealistic body standards. Most models fit a narrow ideal of beauty- slim, tall, and with Eurocentric features. There is a growing movement criticising the industry’s lack of diversity and pushing for more inclusivity. But is it working?

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WHAT DO WE MEAN BY INCLUSIVITY?

Inclusivity means representing different body types, skin colours, genders, abilities and more. It is about embracing everyone’s beauty, even if it doesn’t fit into society’s narrow definition. Inclusivity should go beyond physical appearance, creating a space where people feel accepted and included. Unlike diversity, which focuses on the presence of different groups, inclusivity ensures that these diverse groups are valued and integrated into all aspects of the industry.

Examples of inclusivity in the modelling industry include who is featured on magazine covers, who walks the runway and who is shown wearing clothes online. It also includes the range of clothing sizes a brand offers. Inclusivity means showcasing diverse models and including features like stretch marks without over-airbrushing. In leadership, inclusivity means more women, people of colour and individuals from various backgrounds in powerful positions.

WHY DO WE NEED INCLUSIVITY?

Inclusivity can boost a company’s profits by appealing to a larger audience. But it’s more than that. The modelling industry shapes society’s vision of beauty. Celebrating different bodies helps break unrealistic body expectations. Diversity amongst models can celebrate different ethnicities, and cultures, bring awareness to disabilities, and reduce discrimination. Having diversity in leadership ensures the industry practises what it preaches.

IS IT ACTUALLY HAPPENING?

It’s hard to measure if inclusivity is truly happening. There’s little knowledge of what goes on behind the scenes, like how models are treated, their pay, or working conditions. We also cannot see the influence of their appearance on these factors.

While there’s a notable effort to increase inclusivity and diversity, it’s often superficial. Models of different ethnicities often resemble Eurocentric traits and plus-size models often conform to a specific body shape – tall, hourglass figures and flat stomachs. This limited representation fails to capture the true diversity of plus-size bodies. The number of plus-size models in Paris Fashion Week SS23 actually decreased compared to the year before.

Top jobs in fashion are still overwhelmingly held by white men. The British Fashion Council’s 2023 Diversity in Fashion report highlights that women hold just 38% of leadership roles. Additionally, only 11% of executive board members in major UK fashion companies are from ethnic minority backgrounds. True inclusivity means diverse faces on the runway and in decision-making positions.

Another example of failing inclusivity is the limited representation of disabled individuals. The British Fashion Council found that only 1% of fashion models have a disability, despite disabled people making up 15% of the global population.

Djerf Avenue Inclusivity — ©Djerf Avenue

WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES?

Several challenges exist in becoming more inclusive. One issue is stereotyping people from different backgrounds. For example the exotification and fetishisation of Black and Asian women. This leads to objectification rather than a celebration of different cultures and ethnicities. Rather than emphasising inclusivity, this risks reinforcing harmful societal biases and stereotypes.

Companies must also avoid tokenism, the practice of including a few diverse models to appear inclusive without making real changes. This practice creates a facade of diversity, reducing representation to a checkbox exercise.

Diversity and inclusivity should spread throughout the business chain, not just among the models shown to the public. Without diverse representation in leadership, companies are likely to lack understanding and fall short of providing models with resources and support.

WHO IS LEADING THE WAY?

DJERF AVENUE

Djerf Avenue is a Swedish fashion brand known for its commitment to sustainability and inclusivity. The brand offers a wide range of sizes and features diverse models, advocating for body positivity and representation.

TALA

Founded by fitness influencer Grace Beverley, TALA is a sustainable British activewear brand celebrating inclusivity. It offers a broad range of sizes and features diverse models from different backgrounds.

ORGANIC BASICS

This Danish brand is dedicated to sustainability and inclusivity. It prioritises eco-friendly materials and ensures ethical manufacturing. Organic Basics offer a wide range of sizes and showcases diverse models, emphasising body positivity and representation.