Indeed, the impact of social and environmental crisis heavily influenced designers, strengthening the image of an industry getting caught up by its responsibilities. Draped silouhettes seem ready to confront the winds of desert spaces, looks are a mix of survivalist and military vibes and many faces are covered with masks resonating with the current (and maybe future) pandemic. Through this trend, fashion, as it is used to be, is a reflection of our societies' challenges. Let us hope we shall rise to the occasion, so that the Apocalypse only transpires through our clothing.
Pockets, once considered to be the antithesis of hype, have regained ground in recent years as we looked for more and more practical clothes. For the SS21 season, designers declined them in their most survivalist version: multiple, easy to access, to support as many items as possible and to be well equipped in the event of an end-of- the-world crisis.
The apocalyptic narrative was explored through deconstructed silouhettes, transformed by a life in a destroyed environment. Rick Owens uses workwear clothing with oversized shoulder pads to express this transition from a 9 to 5 routine to a fight-to-survive lifestyle.
Apocalypse also means war and destruction, right ? With this in mind, it is no wonder that brands felt they had to present military inspired pieces. Wether it is a trench disappearing into the landscape for Erinn Hayhow's Garden, camo shades in the Reese Cooper collection or literal use of military clothing at Myar, everyone seemed to prepare for a fight.
The fashion industry also seemed to estimate that the apocalypse will be brought by climate change and intense weather situations. This prediction resulted in many crafty looking designs, with a half plastic jacket at Giuseppe Buccinà or a bright pink raincoat at Stella McCartney... maybe to protect one from radioactive rains ?
+ Words: Claire Roussel, Luxiders Magazine Contributor
Claire Roussel is a fashion writer dedicated to sustainability and social issues. She uses her passion for writing to tell the stories of the people fighting to make the fashion industry a more responsible one.