Kamola Rustamova's Pre-Fall 2025 collection, inspired by the ancient ornaments of Kochkor Shohi

From Steppes to Streets: The Rise of Central Asian Fashion in London

A subtle yet significant shift is underway in London’s fashion circles, where Central Asian design is beginning to make its presence felt. With bold colours, intricate textiles, and centuries-old craftsmanship, designers from the region are bringing a fresh perspective to the capital — one rooted in cultural heritage but firmly tuned to contemporary style.

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From Tashkent to Bishkek, a growing number of creatives are channelling the visual language of their homelands into garments that resonate with today’s fashion-forward audience. In London, their influence is increasingly visible — from pop-up exhibitions in Shoreditch to curated racks in independent boutiques. The appeal lies in the blend: traditional silhouettes and handwork paired with a modern sense of ease and wearability.

This rising interest is being driven in part by London’s Central Asian diaspora, who are seeking ways to reconnect with their roots through fashion. It also aligns with broader shifts in the industry — toward ethical production, modest dressing, and underrepresented narratives.

Tashkent-based designer Kamola Rustamova exemplifies this crossover. Her label, Azukar Moreno, merges Uzbek craftsmanship with elements of Spanish costume — think ikat fabrics reworked into flamenco-inspired dresses, or embroidered jackets with dramatic, structured sleeves. The result is a collection that feels both global and deeply personal.
Speaking from her studio in Uzbekistan, Rustamova recalls a London client who once told her: “I’ve never worn something this bright in my life.” It’s a comment she often hears — and one that reflects the distinctiveness of her designs. Her work has found a strong following among the Uzbek community in London, offering not only a connection to cultural memory, but also a bold, expressive alternative to more mainstream styles.

“There’s something empowering in wearing your culture — especially when it’s reimagined for today,” says Rustamova.

Natavan Aliyeva's Khamsa Collection, showcased at the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in Baku. A blend of heritage and contemporary style. Photo by Jalil Rzayev
Natavan Aliyeva’s Khamsa Collection, showcased at the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in Baku. A blend of heritage and contemporary style. Photo by Jalil Rzayev.
Kamola Rustamova
Kamola Rustamova
Kamola Rustamova's Pre-Fall 2025 collection, inspired by the ancient ornaments of Kochkor Shohi
Kamola Rustamova’s Pre-Fall 2025 collection, inspired by the ancient ornaments of Kochkor Shohi

Baku-based fashion designer Natavan Aliyeva shares a similar perspective. She agrees that the growing interest in Central Asian fashion stems from more than aesthetics — it’s about cultural connection. “There’s something heartwarming about these motifs,” she says, pointing to the way traditional patterns often reflect the region’s vivid natural landscapes and deep artistic heritage.

Aliyeva believes the emotional pull of these designs is just as powerful as their visual impact. “There’s a cocoon-type feeling — a sense of comfort and protection — in their simplicity,” she explains. It’s a tactile and psychological experience, she adds, as the natural fabrics and familiar shapes offer not just style, but a quiet reassurance.

Preserving these traditions is central to Aliyeva’s work and one of the key reasons she entered fashion in the first place. “Our roots are a source of strength and pride,” she says. “They tell the story of who we are.”
According to Kyrgyz-born fashion designer Tolgonai Baira, the humble chapan has found admirers even within Britain’s most exclusive circles.

“Even people closer to the Royal Family ordered chapans from us,” Baira revealed. Based in Kyrgyzstan, her atelier continues to attract attention from diplomatic circles and international clients, with a steady stream of bespoke orders keeping the centuries-old garment in high demand.

As London’s fashion scene continues to evolve, voices like hers are helping expand the narrative. Central Asian fashion may still be emerging — but it’s doing so with confidence, colour, and unmistakable character. Baira’s relationship with the UK is more than commercial — it’s personal. “I briefly studied in London in 1999,” she recalled. “London left a mark in my heart.” Her time in the British capital not only exposed her to Western aesthetics but also deepened her appreciation for the cultural exchange that fashion allows.

Yet, the designer believes the Western-inspired phase of fashion may have reached its creative limits. “This fashion cycle exhausted itself because designs were primarily inspired by European fashion trends,” she said. Now, she sees a new wave rising — one rooted in the bold colours, intricate patterns, and historical richness of Central Asian design.

“That’s why the focus is on Central Asian countries,” Baira explained. “There’s a lot of new things coming up.” Indeed, across cities like Bishkek, Almaty, and Tashkent, a new generation of designers is reinterpreting heritage wear for global runways — and British wardrobes.

For Londoners seeking something with both elegance and story, the chapan and the atlas may just be this season’s most meaningful fashion statement.

Natavan Aliyeva by Jalil Rzayev
Natavan Aliyeva by Jalil Rzayev
Natavan Aliyeva's Khamsa Collection, showcased at the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in Baku. A blend of heritage and contemporary style. Photo by Jalil Rzayev
Natavan Aliyeva’s Khamsa Collection, showcased at the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in Baku. A blend of heritage and contemporary style. Photo by Jalil Rzayev
Natavan Aliyeva's Khamsa Collection, showcased at the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in Baku. A blend of heritage and contemporary style. Photo by Jalil Rzayev.
Natavan Aliyeva’s Khamsa Collection, showcased at the Palace of the Shirvanshahs in Baku. A blend of heritage and contemporary style. Photo by Jalil Rzayev.

+ Highlight Image:
Courtesy by Kamola Rustamova

+ Words:
Fuad Alakbarov
Luxiders Magazine Contributor

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