Who’s Next | More Sustainable than Ever
Paris turned off the lights of its Fashion Week last Tuesday giving an end to the most difficult fashion calendar of all time. Between catwalks and specific exhibitions, the Who's Next trade fair opened its doors on Friday, October 2, to bring the fashion business to life with a more local and sustainable offer in a more intimate setting but with a great commercial force. The need and desire to do business was felt.
Friday, October 2nd. It rains in the European fashion capital. We landed first time in the morning. It has not been easy for anyone to get here in these times. Paris is on the list of highest risk areas in Europe for the record numbers of positives in Covid-19. On the front pages of the national press, the government announces the closure of bars and restaurants for next week.
We decide to go directly to Jardin des Tuileries, where the international fashion fairs Who’s Next , Impact, Premiere Class and Traffic take place, for the first time all together, because in difficult times, unity is strength. There is a queue to enter. The security measures are extreme. Social distancing, mandatory face masks and an aseptic gel shower before entering.
We do not give credit. The fair, which has opted for a more intimate format, is completely full of exhibitors and visitors. Those who are there, logically, have come to do business. The Claim of this edition –Time to RESTART, RETHINK & RESET fashion– becomes a reality. We feel the force of an impulse to reflect and share, to rethink and restructure fashion.
The offer is more local. The "made in France" and the "Parisian look" take center stage at the event. We like it. But what we like the most is to observe that sustainability is part of the sales pitch of most of the brands that we find there. It seems that the fashion sector is beginning to hear the cries of the planet.
© LOCO CAROLO
© BUBBLE MOOD
© DYCTEAM
SUSTAINABILITY AS HIGHLIGHT: IMPACT
Precious pendants, elegant earrings, shoes that are no longer merely a practical accessory, women collections… the sustainable trend is everywhere. Not only at IMPACT , where we met Paris Good Fashion, the movement which federates industry players; designers, brands, experts, citizens… who are committed to taking practical steps towards a fashion industry which respects the environment as well as human rights. There we also met Sonde LJ, who strives for a zero-waste and tailor-made manufacturing model. As the designer says, she "design clothes that grow as your body grows. The technique of my pattern makes it possible to make changes to the garment with little effort, so that the garment will always adapt to your body, even during gestation periods."
Bosabo is other of those brands "made in France" that catched our eyes. This artisan designer has been crafting clogs, sandals and boots since 1890. Five generations later and the clogs, sandals, mules, boots and corks flats can be found in boutiques, concept stores and department stores worldwide. Bosabo is passionately eco-conscious and ethical brand. The wood used to craft the soles comes from sustainable plantation forest. The leathers used are predominantely locally sourced.
We also like Lolo Carolo, on a mission to prove that comfort, good design and sustainability match together!. That is why they wanted to make socks that are environmentally friendly using recycled and organic fibers, but they wanted to go further than this. They have committed to plant 1000 trees in the coming months. Planting trees helps them to reduce our carbon footprint. They're planting a new tree for every pair of socks sold.
Esquisse Paris offers eco-responsible lingerie and swimwear combining beauty and comfort. Manufactured 100% in France, Italy and Portugal, this fashion gives freedom to the seductive codes of traditional lingerie. On our list is also Mama Tierra’s work, always focused on the independence and livelihood of indigenous women and respect for Mother Earth. “Mama Tierra produces sustainable designer accessories that empower those who make them and those who wear them. For us, sustainability is synonym of gender equality, fair trade and environmental protection”, emphasizes Dr. Lourdes Grollimund president of the Swiss Association.
© HAPPY HAUS
NO SUGAR
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© STORIATIPIC
MOST OF THE COOLEST BRANDS WERE SUSTAINABLE
Yes, surprisingly, IMPACT was not the only area dedicated to ethical fashion, sustainable design, and every positive fashion which contributes towards the ecological transition of the sector. We found several cool brands that are moving on this direction.
We totally love the Kokoro capsule collection created by the designers Inez and Katarzyna (Vicher duo) during the quarantine, which was inspired by the mind and heart, and praised everyday life. They still remember how important an artistic statement is in a designer's work.
Storiatipic is trying every season to be more and more sustainable. "We got some certificates from our suppliers in India, Our designer goes to India at least twice a year to check the quality of the factories at the environmental and social levels."
Milena Zu is an ethically committed Italian brand. Applying principles of low environmental impact by avoiding the use of harmful chemicals throughout their entire manufacturing process, the brand is also supporting the local Balinese artisans master weavers and their wives by encouraging them to protect their environment while manufacturing the crocheted jewellery from their homes.
Each Bubble Mood collection is a limited edition made in a humanly timely manner. They use eco-friendly and sustainable material such as Tencel. "Our workshop is run by a woman who hires women from the North Thailand tribes that she trains to become sewers. She also works with women from the Chiang Mai jail." Happy Haus greatest commitment to the planet is to create clothes that can be worn on as long as possible. Dycteam stands for “Define Your Character”, since 2008, based in Taipei Taiwan. (and also 100% made in Taiwan). Owner & Designer: Mcfly Chao believes that "words may move people, but only actions can bring changes. Fashion can't just look good, you must also consider how to do the right thing."
