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Luxiders Magazine (LM)
Fabio Adami Dalla Val (FA)
LM: What the future of the denim industry will look like?
FA: Glorious! In fashion, denim/jeans is an iconic brand that can connect generations and can adapt himself to the challenge that the world presents. Production will improve to meet the increase of demand and new designers will change the image of denim: it’s just a new future.
LM: Denim Première Vision is around the corner. How does this edition look like till now?
FA: Amazing and challenging. We will have a selected list of exhibitors that will showcase their latest developments for the first time and an incredible level of contents that will guarantee to the visitors two days full of creativity and business. We have already defined all the contents and we are working with exhibitors, brands and partner to create a unique experience from the beginning till the end of the show.
We are designing projects among others with Michiko Koshino, Ksenia Schnaider, that signed our campaign too, Adriano Goldschmied and Stefano Chiassai one of the most important Italian designers.
At the end of the first day we will wait for the sunset on the Spree river like the last edition. The evening event will be organized in collaboration with ISKO. We will host a dj set of Chris Sullivan (the London icon) and Alessio Berto, a myth of the Italian acid jazz. The food will be an Italian home made taste from Le Marche Region curated for us from Chef Davide Vitelli and his amazing “brigata”.
LM: Wow! It sounds like a big party! 90% of the denim industry got together in one place (Arena Berlin) last May. Can you give us a sneak peek into what attendees can expect to see at this year's Denim Premiere Vision show in Berlin?
FA: It’s impossibile to share the list in order of importance but I would say that the third edition of Denim PV*Fashion District will change totally the perspective of the show. We will have a collaboration with AMD Akademie Mode & Design, two workshops: one designed with Alessio Berto - The tailor Pattern Support - and in collaboration with Sharabati Denim that will present for the first time at Denim Première Vision the new selvedge line “Loomes”. During the workshop the visitors will experience the opportunity to create their own project based on “EL HABIBI BADLAH BORSOL THE SELVEDGED FRIENDSHIP SUIT” and at the end they will collect a pack with all the needed materials to do it including the selvedge fabric of Sharabati Denim.
We should not forget the exclusive seminar and conversation line up that will start with Denim Première Vision Trend Tasting; Chris Sullivan and Michiko Koshino moderated by Alessio Berto: THE 80's LONDON CULTURE SCENE - a new "fashion stories" event; Corinna and Stefano Chiassai with Berto denim: “BlueTailoring: denim becomes sartorial. Where research, style, craftsmanship and technology meet. will talk about the inspirations of the book “ among others.
LM: The program this season is extremely interesting. A demonstration of denim weaving on an ancient hand loom; an exhibition tracing the history of 100% organic Sicilian cotton; the Première Vintage Market. Everything says Denim by PV is talking more and more about sustainable fashion, am I right?
FA: You are totally right. At Première Vision, sustainability is a key point and we started to invest on it many years ago with an explorative approach. We are the mirror of our partners and we have an exclusive point of view on the market. This allows us to present every time new interesting aspect of the fashion, always with sustainability in mind. We believe that sustainability should have an holistic approach that has to consider the state of the art in therms of raw materials, products, processes, innovative solutions but also the ethic and business side of it. All our partners went through a selection that has considered also these aspects that is also a guarantee for the visitors of the show. We are trying to create synergies and collaborations among the exhibitors and as you know, collaboration is one of the pillar of the circular economy. I strongly believe that is one of the main points if we want to redesign the fashion industry.
LM: What other steps is Denim Premiere Vision taking to promote sustainability in the denim industry?
FA: We will continue with our research and exploration of innovations and our pedagogic approach in the spread of it. As we are part of Première Vision we have the unique opportunity to look at every corner of the industry worldwide, keeping ourself updated with the latest news. We are sharing our vision season after season to our partners, and they are doing it too with us, so it generates a virtuous circle. Our mission is to create the best possible platform for our partners where they can make their business properly and we need to create it around the sustainability concept.
LM: Made of hemp and other regenerative fibers. Dyed naturally or even no-dyed. Made from unexpected upcycling materials. With QR codes informing about the origen, materials and certificates. With labels, buttons and ribbons made from 100% postindustrial denim. Those were the innovations we found during the last Denim by PV in Berlin. Can you share any exciting new developments or trends in the denim industry that we will discover in the edition to come and that we should keep an eye out for?
FA: Of course, te best way to discover excluive innovatoions and novelties is to come and explore the show. However, here are a few teases. Calik will introduce the latest developments of their B210 project of biodegradable fabrics; Casati Flock will present the evolution of their Eco flock line and the Circular project that aim to recycle preconsumers and postconsumers fabrics. There will be also interesting opportunity to see how companies like M&J Group approach the sustainability from a scientific point of view with a strong ethic attitude.
We are also happy to announce the return at Denim PV of Bluesign that will highlight a new project that helps to connect all the value chain and give to the end consumers a better understanding of the product values. With more than 60 selected exhibitors we should expect a huge of new items but in general the feeling is that we are returning to talk about product and fashion first of all.
LM: We also found novel designs and ideas opening doors for upcycling, down cycling, recycling and repurposing denim. There is nothing more sustainable than what already exists. Has the theme of upcycling / recycling taken precedence at the show? You can give us a foretaste of what we will discover in this regard?
FA: Even when we talk about upcycling we have to be carefully and avoid easy speeches that could create misunderstanding, but in general you are completely correct.
For this edition we will host a workshop in collaboration with THERAPY BERLIN dedicated to upcycling where the visitors will have the opportunity to experiment themselves "how to do" and how to be creative. Few of the brands of the Fashion District are upcycling based brands: Regenes, Common parts, Therapy Berlin, Fade out Label, Infinit Denim, Resap Paris,… and many others we had in the previous edition.
But we will have also industrial case history and companies that have a central role regarding that. For example, Casati Flock is able to create new materials from textile waste (new materials meaning paper, textile, chemicals,…). From the Denim Première Vision’s side, we approached the concept since 2017 also from the organization perspective: we are using and reusing most of the materials reducing the waste and the transport. We are also trying to recycle the materials that have eventually to be considered as waste.
LM: During last edition, we really enjoyed your Denim Fashion District, with Capsule collections produced thanks to the materials and know-how of Denim PV exhibitors. Who can be part of it and who will participate in this edition?
FA: For this edition, Fashion District is moving a big step forward keeping a central role in the landscape of the Denim Premiere Vision future. The inspiration of brands that can show an actualization of the trend and the regular exhibitors of PV Denim that present the novelties of AW 24-25 generate and incredible opportunity to look into the future from a privileged window. For this edition we will welcome: Michiko Koshino and we will present some highlights of her iconic history, Ksenia Schnaider that signed our campaign too, Daily Blue (Adriano Goldschmied), Fade Out Label, Denzilpatrick, Kentroy Yearwood, Stripe of-f Road, Milena Andrade, Resap Paris, Common Parts, The Sparkle Collection, Regenes, Tria Maria Jaakkola, 8IGB, Infinit Denim, Therapy Berlin and few others to come.
They already started to work with the fabrics of Denim PV’s exhibitors to present new exclusive items among their latest collection.
LM: What advice would you give to young designers or entrepreneurs looking to break into the denim industry?
FA: I’m not old enough for giving advice but I can say keep an open mind, explore and COLLABORATE. Don’t be afraid to share what you are doing because contamination is a key for your future and spend time in production to learn how everything is made because it’s only in this way that your creativity can transform and redesign the status quo. The greatest innovations in the textile were created from people with amazing production skills (Adriano Goldshmied, Francois Girbaud, Etro, Massimo Osti, Jean-Paul Gaultier and many others).
LM: Lastly, what do you think are the biggest challenges facing the denim industry today?
FA: I think that the gap between producers and brands is bigger than ever.
All Images: © Denim Première Vision