Spring/Summer 2022 Runway Trend | Structured Tailoring

 

Fashion has always loved the idea of playing with the binaries of masculinity and femininity. This season turned out to be no different. Take a look at the brands that adopted structured tailoring on the spring/summer 2022 runway.

 

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STRUCTURED TAILORING

Structured tailoring is an expected trend in most womenswear collections as designers try to balance masculine silhouettes with feminine elements. But for the SS22 season, brands have turned it up a notch as their collections feature structured blazers and oversized silhouettes with pleated skirts and fluid dresses.

 

 
 

STRUCTURED TAILORING ON THE SS22 RUNWAY

Givenchy

For his first live show with Givenchy, Matthew M. Williams debuted a collection filled with his signature utility aesthetic. However, the collection also played with sculpted shoulders and bolstered bolero jackets styled with neoprene corset tops and pleated ruffled skirts.This traditional masculine tailoring on romantic silhouettes showcased the future vision of the American designer for the French luxury brand.

 

 
 
 
 
 

THOM BROWNE

As a love letter to American fashion, Thom Browne’s SS22 collection reworked the traditional uniform with gray tones dominating layered constructions of single-breasted jackets and sack suits. Despite the more neutral hues featured in the collection, there were also sleeveless dresses with trompe-l’œil drapery and gowns with trailing capes that popped with color.

 
 
 

BURBERRY

In his previous men’s collection, Riccardo Tisci broke free from the confinements of Burberry’s strictly defined heritage and came into his own. This SS22 collection continues to take advantage of that freedom with a fluid spirit including oversized sleeves, off-the-shoulder necklines and sleeveless tops as well as reconstructed voluminous trench coats with backless cuts that reveal printed swimsuits underneath.

 
 
 
 

LOUIS VUITTON

Looking toward the future but also complimenting the past, Nicolas Ghesquière took inspiration from France’s illustrious royal history for this collection but juxtaposed pieces with more modern elements. The French designer contrasted hoop silhouettes with modern blouses and open-toe satin wrestling boots. He also mismatched denim bike shorts and oversized blazers as well as denim jeans and asymmetrical tunics.

 
 
 
 

+  Words:

Tyler Lea-Thompson
Luxiders Magazine