To receive the Luxiders Newsletter, sign up here.
Fashion shows can be dramatic enough. But this season, brands opted for dramatic silhouettes and draping that not only provided the drama but also made you feel like you were in the production yourself. Gucci brought all the drama for the brand’s centennial anniversary with a SS22 show hosted on Los Angeles’ legendary Hollywood Boulevard. Simone Rocha’s SS22 show was also a celebration but for its first physical show since the beginning of the pandemic at the medieval church of St. Bartholomew the Great in London. It was the season of drama and everyone loved it.
Gucci received the Hollywood treatment for its centennial anniversary mixing themes of the Wild Wild West with Old Hollywood glamor. Alessandro Michele’s collection featured feathered boas and fur jackets styled over mini slip dresses, beautiful gowns trimmed with feathers, and cowboy hats paired with sporty jackets in a subtle nod to Los Angeles’ athleisure culture.
Sarah Burton’s collection for Alexander McQueen was inspired by nature and its relentless and unchangeable character. Models first wore dresses printed with photographic images of sunrises and cloudy blue skies before transitioning to snowy white silhouettes resembling the clouds. Those were then followed by wind-blown draping and trains that seemed to shift direction before the finale ushered in pitch black looks like the arrival of night.
Like a whimsical tale similar to Alice in Wonderland, Hilary Taymor's collection fused the natural world with the living one around her. Looks took on a childlike playfulness represented by beetle corsets, contrasting volumes and shapes and billowing dresses styled on oversized cargo pants. The models were even blowing kisses to the crowd and waving to friends in between theatrical performances on the runway.
Set against the backdrop of the medieval church of St. Bartholomew the Great, the SS22 collection for Simone Rocha seemed like it had sprung from the books of a fairytale. Her models were dressed in layers of pure white broderie anglaise as well as lace and tulle. Their shoulders were draped in gigantic shawls and flowing skirts trailed satin ribbons as crowns of pearls topped their heads. There were even darker elements to the show as other models sported red and black vinyl jackets with laced boots and geometric-shaped tutus.